Short answer: Leave channel selection on Auto unless you have dropouts or slowdowns that point to interference, such as problems that come and go at busy times. If you set a channel by hand on 2.4 GHz, use 1, 6 or 11, the three that don't overlap in the US. Changing the channel won't fix a room that is simply too far from the router.

Leave your router’s channel on Auto unless you have problems that point to interference: dropouts or slowdowns that come and go, often at busy times of day, in rooms that otherwise get a decent signal. If you do pick a channel by hand on 2.4 GHz, use 1, 6 or 11. Changing the channel won’t fix a room that is too far from the router.

This guide is based on Apple, Netgear, ASUS, eero and Cisco Meraki documentation. We have not tested channel changes on these routers.

What is a Wi-Fi channel?

Apple describes channels as “lanes in a street”: each band is split into separate channels, and your router uses one at a time on each band. Nearby routers on the same or overlapping channels compete for airtime, which can slow things down.

When channel selection is set to automatic, Apple says, “your router selects the best Wi-Fi channel for you.” Netgear says its routers pick a 2.4 GHz channel based on your environment, and ASUS routers set the channel to Auto by default.

When does changing the channel help?

Netgear suggests changing channels if you have “frequent lost connections, slow data transfers, or other WiFi issues that can be caused by interference,” and advises keeping the defaults otherwise. Apple’s interference guide lists changing the channel, or letting the router scan for the least congested one, as a fix for interference.

Which channel should you pick?

2.4 GHz: use 1, 6 or 11. Cisco Meraki’s channel planning guide says that in the US, channels 1 through 11 are permitted, which “provides three non-overlapping channels 1, 6 and 11.” Other channels overlap their neighbors. Apple also recommends a 20 MHz channel width on 2.4 GHz to avoid problems near other networks and Bluetooth devices.

5 GHz and 6 GHz: Auto usually works. These bands have many more channels. Apple recommends Auto or all widths for them, and says interference “is less of a concern in these bands.” See 2.4 GHz vs. 5 GHz vs. 6 GHz.

If you have more than one router or access point, Apple recommends configuring each to use a different channel, especially when they’re close together. Netgear, by contrast, says extenders should use the same channels as the router, so check your extender’s instructions.

What are DFS channels on 5 GHz?

Part of the 5 GHz band is shared with radar. Meraki says these channels “are required to use Dynamic Frequency Selection (DFS),” and that an access point that detects radar “must immediately stop using that channel and randomly pick a new channel.”

ASUS describes what that means at home:

• Before using a DFS channel, the router runs a Channel Availability Check that takes “1-10 minutes depending on the country,” and 5 GHz is unavailable during it.
• If radar is detected, devices may disconnect for a while and reconnect on the new channel.
• A router set to 160 MHz may drop to 80 MHz.
• ASUS suggests not enabling DFS channels where 5 GHz disconnects or runs slowly because of heavy interference.

If your 5 GHz network drops for a minute or more at random, try excluding DFS channels from automatic selection.

How to change the channel

Netgear: sign in at routerlogin.net, open Wireless, scroll to the band you want, pick a channel from the Channel menu, and click Apply. Not every channel is available in every region. Netgear also suggests the WiFi Analytics tool in its Nighthawk and Orbi Android apps to find less congested channels.

ASUS: sign in to the web interface at your router’s address or asusrouter.com, go to Wireless, then General, choose the band and set the Control Channel. On 5 GHz, uncheck “Auto select channel including DFS channels” before choosing a specific channel. ASUS says channel selection is in the web interface only, not the app.

eero: there’s no manual channel setting. Eero says it “selects optimal channels for your network” over two days to a week, and changes them infrequently because “channel changes can briefly disrupt your connection.” It also notes that reboots and resets restart this process, so avoid unnecessary restarts.

Google Nest Wifi and Google Wifi: Google’s help pages describe the system choosing bands automatically and don’t describe a manual channel setting.

After any change, test in the rooms that had problems for a day or two before deciding it worked.

Fact-check notes

Bottom line

Keep channels on Auto. If problems come and go and look like interference, try 1, 6 or 11 on 2.4 GHz, move devices to 5 GHz, or exclude DFS channels if 5 GHz drops at random. If a room is weak all the time, fix coverage instead.

Short answer: You need a multi-gig router only if your internet plan is faster than 1 Gbps, or you move large files between wired devices at home. To use the extra speed, every link in the path needs to be multi-gig: the router's WAN port, a LAN port, the cable and the device itself. Check the port list, not the headline Wi-Fi speed, because some routers have just one or two multi-gig ports.

You need a multi-gig router if your internet plan is faster than 1 Gbps, or if you regularly move large files between wired devices at home, such as a computer and a network storage drive. For a plan of 1 Gbps or less, a router with gigabit ports is enough.

This is a research-based buying guide built from manufacturer specifications, the IEEE Ethernet standard and providers’ published plans. We have not tested these routers.

Quick answer

What does “multi-gig” mean?

Multi-gig Ethernet runs faster than the 1 Gbps (gigabit) ports most routers, computers and consoles have had for years. The common speeds are 2.5 Gbps, 5 Gbps and 10 Gbps. The 2.5 and 5 Gbps versions are defined by the IEEE 802.3bz standard, designed to run over the twisted-pair cable many homes already have.

The point is simple: a 1 Gbps port caps that connection at about 1 Gbps. If your provider delivers 2 Gbps to a router with a gigabit WAN port, the router can only pass on about half of it.

Every link in the path has to be multi-gig

To see multi-gig speed on one device, each step from the provider to that device needs to support it:

1. The provider’s equipment. The modem or fiber terminal needs a multi-gig port. Providers that sell multi-gig plans usually supply this; check with yours.
2. The router’s WAN (internet) port. This should match or beat your plan.
3. A router LAN port or a switch. Your device has to plug into a multi-gig port too.
4. The cable. See the cable section below.
5. The device. A computer with only a gigabit Ethernet port tops out at about 1 Gbps, even on an 8 Gig plan.

TP-Link puts it in a footnote on its Archer BE230 page: actual speed “may be limited by the rate of the product’s Ethernet WAN or LAN port, the rate supported by the network cable, Internet service provider factors and other environmental conditions.”

Count the ports, not just the speed

Routers advertised as multi-gig vary a lot in how many fast ports they have.

On the Archer BE230, one 2.5 Gbps port connects to the internet and only one LAN port runs faster than 1 Gbps. If you need more fast wired connections, add a multi-gig switch.

Do you need new cable?

Probably not for 2.5 Gbps. Fluke Networks’ summary of IEEE 802.3bz says Cat 5e supports 2.5 Gbps over 100 meters (328 feet) and Cat 6 supports 5 Gbps over the same distance. 10 Gbps over long runs needs Cat 6A. Our Ethernet cable guide covers each category.

Does multi-gig help Wi-Fi?

Indirectly. Ports carry wired traffic and the connection to your provider. Wi-Fi speed depends on the router’s radios and your device’s Wi-Fi support. TP-Link notes that Wi-Fi 7 features such as Multi-Link Operation require devices that support them too. Whatever your Wi-Fi can do, a gigabit internet port still caps internet traffic at about 1 Gbps. See Wi-Fi 6E vs. Wi-Fi 7.

Mesh systems also benefit. Multi-gig ports allow faster wired backhaul between units; see wired vs. wireless mesh backhaul.

Do you need a multi-gig plan at all?

Most households don’t. Even busy homes use far less than 1 Gbps at once for streaming, video calls and gaming. Multi-gig plans help most when you move very large files or several people download big games or backups at the same time. Our guide to how much internet speed you need works through it. Multi-gig plans are available in some areas: gFiber, for example, lists 3 Gig and 8 Gig plans alongside 1 Gig, each with a router included.

If your provider includes a router with a multi-gig plan, check its ports before buying your own. Our guide to buying your own router vs. using the provider’s covers the trade-offs.

Fact-check notes

Bottom line

Buy a multi-gig router when your plan is faster than 1 Gbps, and choose one whose WAN port matches the plan and whose LAN ports cover the wired devices that need the speed. On a 1 Gbps plan, spend the money on Wi-Fi coverage instead.

Short answer: Walk the house with your phone and run a speed test in each room to find where Wi-Fi drops off. Most dead zones come from distance, dense walls or metal, or a router hidden in a cabinet or basement. Move the router to a central, raised, open spot first. If a room is still weak, add a wired connection or a mesh point placed halfway to the dead zone, not inside it.

To fix a Wi-Fi dead zone, first find out where the signal actually falls off. Walk the house with a phone and run a speed test in each room. Then work through the fixes from cheapest to most expensive: move the router, clear obstacles, change the channel, and only then add a wired link or a mesh point.

This is a research-based guide built from Apple, eero, Google and ASUS documentation. We have not mapped coverage in a test home.

Step 1: Map your weak spots

You don’t need special tools.

1. Pick one device, ideally the phone or laptop you use most.
2. Run a speed test in each room, standing where you’d normally use the device. Note the download speed and the signal bars.
3. Repeat at a busy time, such as the evening, to catch interference from neighbors’ networks.
4. Check the router’s app. Mesh apps often show connection quality per device or per unit. Google suggests running a mesh test after moving a point.

If your router or app shows signal strength in dBm, ASUS gives these bands: -20 to -70 dBm is good, -71 to -80 dBm is fair, and -81 dBm or lower is weak.

A room that is slow on every device is a coverage problem. If one device is slow everywhere, the device is the problem. Our slow Wi-Fi guide covers that test, and our guide to slow Wi-Fi on a fast connection explains the difference between Wi-Fi and plan speed.

Step 2: Move the router

Placement is the free fix. The guidance from eero and Google lines up:

• Central. Eero suggests moving the modem and main unit “out of your basement and into a more centralized location.”
• Raised. Eero recommends a height halfway between floor and ceiling. Google suggests a shelf or TV stand, ideally at eye level.
• In the open. Eero says not to put units inside a media console or cabinet. Google says to avoid objects that physically block the signal.
• Away from heat. Eero says direct sunlight and incandescent bulbs can hurt performance.

If your provider’s cable or fiber outlet is in a corner, a longer Ethernet cable between the modem and the router can let you move the router without moving the outlet.

Step 3: Check what’s in the way

Some materials block Wi-Fi far more than others. Apple’s interference guide rates them:

Eero adds that older homes with plaster, lath or chicken wire in the walls are “particularly hard” for Wi-Fi, and that placing units near doors can help because wood is easier for the signal to pass through. Mirrors, aquariums, refrigerators and metal furniture are also on eero’s list of things to keep units away from.

Step 4: Reduce interference

Interference can turn a weak area into a dead one. Apple lists microwave ovens, cordless phones, fluorescent lights, wireless video cameras and power cables as common sources. Its suggestions:

• Change the Wi-Fi channel, or let the router scan for the least congested one. Our Wi-Fi channel guide has the steps.
• Move devices to 5 GHz where the router supports it, which takes them off the busier 2.4 GHz band.
• Reduce the number of active devices on the same band.

5 GHz and 6 GHz are faster but reach less far through walls than 2.4 GHz. See 2.4 GHz vs. 5 GHz vs. 6 GHz for the trade-off.

Step 5: Add coverage, wired first

If a room is still weak after moving the router, you need a second access point. Wired links are more reliable than wireless ones, so check these first:

For wireless units, placement matters as much as the hardware:

• Halfway, not in the dead zone. Eero says: “Don’t place eeros directly in dead zones. Instead, place them halfway between your gateway eero and dead zones.”
• Spacing. Eero suggests 20 to 30 feet apart, and no more than 50 feet. Google says no more than two rooms from the router or another point.
• Line of sight between units helps, according to both eero and Google.

Homes with thick walls may need more units, eero says. Or connect them by cable; see wired vs. wireless mesh backhaul.

Fact-check notes

Bottom line

Find the dead zones before buying anything. Most homes get the biggest improvement from moving the router somewhere central, raised and open. If a room is still weak, connect a second access point by cable, MoCA or powerline, or place a mesh point halfway between the router and the weak room.

Short answer: Powerline adapters can be worth it when you can't run Ethernet and Wi-Fi can't reach a room, but results depend on your home's wiring. The speed on the box is a theoretical maximum. Plug both adapters straight into wall outlets on the same circuit, and buy adapters that use the same standard, because G.hn and HomePlug AV2 adapters don't work together.

Powerline adapters are worth trying when you can’t run an Ethernet cable and Wi-Fi can’t reach a room well. They are not a sure thing. They send data over your home’s electrical wiring, so speed depends on that wiring and on what else is plugged in. The speed printed on the box is a theoretical maximum.

This is a research-based guide built from Netgear, TP-Link and devolo documentation. We have not tested powerline adapters in our own homes, so there are no speed results here.

Quick answer: should you buy powerline?

How do powerline adapters work?

Netgear says powerline adapters “use your home’s electrical wiring to transmit internet data.” You plug one adapter into an outlet near your router and connect it with an Ethernet cable. You plug the second into an outlet in the room that needs a connection, then connect a device, a TV or a mesh point to it.

TP-Link says that “in most cases” its adapters pair automatically. Netgear notes that powerline products have both a network password and a device password, and some older adapters have no reset or security button.

Why is the speed on the box so high?

Powerline ratings are theoretical. TP-Link says figures such as “600Mbps, 1200Mbps, or 2000Mbps are the highest powerline rate in theory.” Netgear sells the Powerline 2000 (PLP2000), rated “up to 2 Gbps.”

Those figures describe the electrical link under ideal conditions, not what a laptop will measure. TP-Link lists the things that pull real speed down:

• Power strips and surge protectors. Adapters “should always be plugged directly into a wall outlet.”
• Appliances with motors, such as air conditioners, washing machines, fans and kitchen appliances, which “can interfere with powerline signals.”
• Phone and laptop chargers, which “can introduce noise on the power line.”
• Distance. TP-Link gives a maximum range of 300 meters, but says noise and line quality reduce the effective range.

Will powerline work in my home?

Wiring is the deciding factor, and you can’t see it. The practical rules from the manufacturers:

1. Same circuit. Netgear says both adapters should be on the same electrical circuit. TP-Link says adapters on separate circuits can pair but won’t communicate.
2. Phases. TP-Link says powerline works across phases, but the rate drops. If an adapter pair is slow, try a different outlet for the remote unit.
3. Wall outlets only. Netgear says performance is “always better” plugged directly into a wall socket. TP-Link adds that some outlets with a built-in surge protector “can also cut the powerline connection.”
4. Keep away from noisy devices. Netgear’s product page also advises avoiding outlets near high-power appliances.

Because results vary, buy from a retailer with an easy return policy and test the connection with a wired speed test on day one.

HomePlug AV2 vs. G.hn: which standard?

Two standards are on sale:

• HomePlug AV and AV2. Netgear says “compatibility of the adapters is based on its HomePlug version,” and that HomePlug AV and the older HomePlug 1.0 networks can share a home but “cannot communicate with each other.”
• G.hn. Devolo describes G.hn as a standard developed by the International Telecommunication Union. Devolo moved its Magic adapters from HomePlug AV2 to G.hn and claims G.hn is faster; we have not verified that claim.

They don’t mix. TP-Link says: “G.hn powerline adapters are not compatible with HomePlug AV/AV2 powerline adapters.” Buy a matched kit, and check the standard on the box before adding another adapter later.

Powerline for mesh Wi-Fi

A powerline link can act as a wired backhaul for a mesh point, which frees the mesh system from relaying all traffic over Wi-Fi. Check that your mesh system supports Ethernet backhaul first. Our guide to wired vs. wireless mesh backhaul explains when that matters. Some powerline kits also include a Wi-Fi access point in the remote adapter, which can cover a single room without a full mesh system.

If you’re fixing one weak room, start with our guide to finding and fixing Wi-Fi dead zones.

Fact-check notes

Bottom line

Powerline is a reasonable fix for one hard-to-reach room when Ethernet and MoCA aren’t options. Treat the box speed as a ceiling, plug both adapters straight into wall outlets on the same circuit, buy a matched kit, and test it while you can still return it.

Short answer: Band steering, often called Smart Connect, combines your router's 2.4 GHz, 5 GHz and 6 GHz bands under one network name and moves dual-band devices to the band it judges best. Most homes should leave it on: Apple recommends one name for all bands. Turn it off only for a specific problem, such as a 2.4 GHz-only device that won't set up, and turn it back on afterward.

Band steering puts your router’s 2.4 GHz, 5 GHz and, on newer routers, 6 GHz bands under one network name, then nudges each device that supports more than one band toward the band the router judges best. Leave it on unless you have a specific problem. The usual reason to turn it off is a smart plug or camera that only supports 2.4 GHz and fails during setup. Turn it back on afterward.

This is an explainer based on router makers’ and Apple’s support documentation. It is not a hands-on test.

What band steering does

Without band steering, a dual-band router broadcasts two networks, such as “Home” and “Home-5G,” and you pick one on each device. With it, you see a single name.

The router then helps decide which band each device uses:

• Netgear says Smart Connect “automatically chooses the best WiFi band for your device.”
• TP-Link says Smart Connect assigns each device to the band “that provides the fastest speed” and balances load across bands. Devices that only support 2.4 GHz stay on 2.4 GHz.
• Google says Nest Wifi and Google Wifi steer devices to “the band with the best performance for each device,” and that devices pick a band based on compatibility, security, signal strength and distance from a Wi-Fi point.
• ASUS lets you adjust the rules on many models: when steering is triggered, which band a device is sent to, and a “bounce detect” limit that keeps a device on one band for a while if it has been moved too often.

The device still has the last word on which band it joins. Routers influence that choice. The Wi-Fi Alliance’s Agile Multiband program exists to support this kind of information exchange between access points and devices, so that band and channel decisions can be made with better information.

What each brand calls it

Netgear says Smart Connect “might or might not be disabled by default,” depending on the model. Check your router if you’re not sure which mode you’re in.

Why most homes should leave it on

• Apple recommends one name. Its router guidance says to use a single network name for all bands and warns that with different names, “devices might not connect reliably.” On Wi-Fi 6E networks, Apple devices flag the network as having limited compatibility if the names differ.
• It helps on mesh systems. Eero says its single network name lets devices “seamlessly roam” across its mesh.
• It moves capable devices off 2.4 GHz. Microsoft’s Teams network guidance recommends band steering to move dual-band devices to 5 GHz, which it says is better suited to real-time media. See 2.4 GHz vs. 5 GHz vs. 6 GHz for the trade-offs between bands.

When turning it off can help

• A 2.4 GHz-only device won’t set up. TP-Link suggests separating the bands when smart home devices that support only 2.4 GHz struggle to connect. On eero, hide the 5 and 6 GHz bands for 30 minutes instead. Our 2.4 GHz smart device guide has the steps for each brand.
• A device keeps dropping or switching bands. ASUS says a phone’s own Wi-Fi band-preference settings may make Smart Connect ineffective “or lead to frequent disconnections.” Check the device’s settings first.
• An old device can’t connect at all. On ASUS routers, setting the steering rule to allow only 802.11ac (Wi-Fi 5) devices means 802.11n-only devices “will not be able to connect.” Restoring the default rules fixes this.

Before turning band steering off for good, try the simpler fixes. ASUS recommends its default steering settings “if there are no special requirements.” Update the router’s firmware, and check whether the device simply has a weak signal. Our slow Wi-Fi guide covers how to tell.

How to turn it off, and what changes

• Netgear: sign in at routerlogin.net, open Wireless, uncheck Enable Smart Connect, then click Apply.
• ASUS: on newer firmware, give each band its own network name and password. On older firmware, turn off Enable Smart Connect under Wireless, then General.
• TP-Link: in tplinkwifi.net, go to Advanced, then Wireless, and switch off Smart Connect. In the Tether app, go to More, Wi-Fi Settings, then 2.4GHz & 5GHz Network.

Once the bands have separate names, each device stays on the band you choose. That means you manage it: a laptop on the 2.4 GHz name stays there even when 5 GHz would be faster. If you split the bands only for a setup, switch Smart Connect back on afterward.

Fact-check notes

Bottom line

Band steering is the right default for most homes. Leave it on, keep your router’s firmware current, and switch it off only long enough to fix a specific device problem, such as a 2.4 GHz-only smart plug that won’t set up.

Short answer: Zoom and Teams need only a few megabits per second, so freezes and robotic audio usually come from an unsteady connection, not a slow plan. Use Ethernet or a strong 5 GHz signal, leave WMM on, turn on your router's video-call priority feature if it has one, and stop large uploads from swamping the line during calls.

Video calls need far less speed than most home plans provide. When Zoom or Teams freezes, the cause is usually an unsteady connection: weak Wi-Fi, a crowded band, or another upload filling the line. Fix those first. Then use your router’s video-call priority setting if it has one.

This is a research-based guide built from Zoom’s and Microsoft’s published requirements and router makers’ support documentation. We have not measured call quality on these routers ourselves.

Quick answer: the settings that help most

1. Plug in with Ethernet if you can. If you can’t, connect on 5 GHz or 6 GHz, close to the router or a mesh point.
2. Leave WMM on. Apple recommends it, and Microsoft recommends QoS or WMM for Teams.
3. Turn on your router’s video-call mode, if it has one. ASUS, Google and eero all offer one (see the table below).
4. Keep big uploads off the line during calls. Cloud backups and large file syncs compete with your outgoing video.
5. Fix bufferbloat if calls break up whenever someone else is downloading. See our bufferbloat guide.

How much bandwidth do video calls use?

Zoom says it adjusts bandwidth to each participant’s network. Google’s Meet requirements page lists hardware and says you need a broadband connection, but gives no bandwidth figures.

The figures are per person on a call. Two people on separate 1080p Zoom calls need roughly double. Upload is the tighter limit on many cable plans, so check yours with our guide to how much internet speed you need.

Why calls freeze on a fast plan

Bandwidth alone does not guarantee a good call. Microsoft says “provisioned bandwidth alone” doesn’t guarantee quality, and that calls with static, cut-outs or voices that “sound like robots” could point to jitter or packet loss. When bandwidth does run short, Microsoft says Teams prioritizes audio over video.

The common home causes:

• Weak or crowded Wi-Fi. Microsoft says the 2.4 GHz band is often congested by consumer devices, and that 5 GHz is better suited to real-time media. See 2.4 GHz vs. 5 GHz vs. 6 GHz.
• A full upload. A backup or game download on another device can push your call’s traffic into a queue. That delay is bufferbloat.
• The Wi-Fi link, not the plan. If a wired test is fast but your laptop is slow, the problem is local. Our guide to slow Wi-Fi on a fast connection walks through the checks.

Router settings for video calls, by brand

On an ASUS router, open the router’s web interface, go to Adaptive QoE, switch on QoS, pick Work from Home and apply. ASUS also offers a Bandwidth Limiter that caps a chosen device. It says any limit should be lower than your provider’s maximum speed, or it won’t take effect.

On Google Nest Wifi or Google Wifi, open the Google Home app, then Wi-Fi, Network settings and Preferred activities. To prioritize a single laptop instead, open Wi-Fi, then Devices, choose the laptop and pick a duration.

On eero, open the Discover tab in the eero app, tap eero Labs and turn on Optimize for Conferencing and Gaming.

If your router has none of these, check its QoS or traffic-priority settings, and make sure WMM is enabled. Apple says disabling WMM “can affect the performance and reliability of devices on the network.”

Other settings worth checking

• One network name across bands. Apple recommends a single name for all bands. If you split bands, make sure the work laptop joins 5 GHz or 6 GHz.
• 2.4 GHz channel width. Apple recommends 20 MHz on 2.4 GHz and Auto on 5 GHz and 6 GHz.
• Work VPN. Microsoft says routing Teams traffic through a VPN can add “extra latency and jitter.” That setting belongs to your employer, so ask its IT team whether calls bypass the VPN.

When to change hardware instead

If the room you work in has a weak signal, settings won’t fix it. Run a cable, use MoCA over existing coax, or add a mesh point with a wired backhaul. If your provider’s gateway lacks priority settings, our guide to buying your own router covers what to check before you switch.

Fact-check notes

Bottom line

A video call needs about 4 Mbps in each direction at most, so a faster plan rarely fixes a bad call. Get the work device onto Ethernet or a strong 5 GHz or 6 GHz signal, leave WMM on, switch on your router’s video-call priority, and stop other uploads from crowding the line.

Short answer: Wi-Fi 6E is the same technology as Wi-Fi 6 with one addition: the 6 GHz band. That band is wide and uncrowded, so it helps most in apartments and busy homes, for 6E-capable devices near the router. If your devices can't use 6 GHz, or your problem is coverage in far rooms, Wi-Fi 6 does the same job. This is a research-based comparison, not a hands-on test.

Wi-Fi 6E is Wi-Fi 6 with one addition: access to the 6 GHz band. It doesn’t raise the top speed. What it adds is a wide, uncrowded band that only newer devices can use. That helps most in apartments and busy homes, for 6E-capable phones and laptops close to the router. If your devices can’t use 6 GHz, or your real problem is weak signal in far rooms, Wi-Fi 6 does the job.

This is a research-based comparison built from Wi-Fi Alliance, FCC and manufacturer documentation. We have not tested these routers ourselves.

What is the difference between Wi-Fi 6 and Wi-Fi 6E?

Both use the same underlying standard, IEEE 802.11ax, and the same features. The Wi-Fi Alliance, the industry group that certifies Wi-Fi products, lists them for Wi-Fi 6: 160 MHz channels, 1024 QAM encoding, OFDMA (which shares a channel among several devices at once) and MU-MIMO (which sends data to several devices at the same time).

The Wi-Fi Alliance began certifying Wi-Fi 6E on January 7, 2021, describing it as extending “into the 6 GHz band the capabilities of Wi-Fi CERTIFIED 6.” In the United States, an FCC rule effective July 27, 2020 made about 1,200 MHz of 6 GHz spectrum available for this kind of use, and the Wi-Fi Alliance says that room holds up to seven 160 MHz channels.

The Intel figure is a theoretical radio rate between a laptop and the router, not an internet speed. It is the same for both, which is the point: Wi-Fi 6E’s advantage is space, not a higher ceiling.

When does the 6 GHz band actually help?

Three conditions have to line up.

Your devices support it. Netgear says 6 GHz is “exclusive to devices that support WiFi 6E and newer standards.” On Windows, Netgear says PCs “must use the latest Windows 11 operating system release” and a 6 GHz-capable adapter with current drivers; it says Microsoft is not adding 6 GHz support to Windows 10. Apple’s list of devices that can join Wi-Fi 6E or Wi-Fi 7 networks starts at iPhone 15 Pro and iPhone 15 Pro Max (excluding iPhone 15, iPhone 15 Plus, iPhone 16e and iPhone 17e) and Mac models from 2023, such as MacBook Pro, or 2024 for MacBook Air.

The 5 GHz band is crowded. Netgear says 6 GHz has less interference “since it has more channels and fewer devices.” If you live in an apartment building with dozens of neighboring networks, or your home has many active devices, moving the newest ones to 6 GHz frees space for everything else. In a detached house with few neighbors, 5 GHz may already be uncrowded.

The device is close to the router. Netgear says 6 GHz “provides the least coverage” of the three bands but is the fastest. It works best in the same room or the next one. Our Wi-Fi bands guide explains why.

When is Wi-Fi 6 enough?

• Most of your devices don’t support Wi-Fi 6E. They will never use 6 GHz.
• Your problem is coverage, not congestion. A slow far bedroom is a range problem, and 6 GHz has the shortest range. Mesh units and placement fix that; see router vs. mesh and how to fix slow Wi-Fi.
• Your internet plan is modest. Neither generation raises your plan speed. See how much internet speed you need.
• You use Windows 10 PCs that can’t move to Windows 11.

Which should I buy?

We have not included prices; we only publish a price with the date we checked it. If you are weighing Wi-Fi 6E against Wi-Fi 7, see our Wi-Fi 6E vs. Wi-Fi 7 guide.

What should I check on the box?

• “6 GHz” listed in the specifications. That is what makes a router Wi-Fi 6E. Don’t rely on the word “tri-band” alone; check that 6 GHz is one of the bands named.
• WPA3 support. Cisco’s WPA3 guide states that “WPA3 is mandatory for all Wi-Fi 6E devices operating in 6 GHz band” and that “WPA2 is not permitted in 6 GHz operation.” Set the router to WPA3, or WPA2/WPA3 transitional mode if older devices need it; see WPA2 vs. WPA3.
• Firmware support. Check how long the maker supports its routers with security updates; see how to tell if your router still gets security updates.
• Port speeds. A fast Wi-Fi link is limited by a 1 Gbps internet port if your plan is faster than that.

Fact-check notes

Bottom line

Wi-Fi 6E doesn’t make Wi-Fi faster on paper. It gives newer devices a private lane. Pay for it if you have 6E-capable devices and a crowded 5 GHz band, and keep those devices near the router. If your devices are older or your problem is reach, Wi-Fi 6 with good placement, or mesh, is the better use of the money.

Short answer: Look up your exact model and hardware version on the maker's end-of-life list, then check the router's app or admin page for a recent firmware update. If the model has reached end of life, it will not get security fixes again. The FBI and NSA both advise replacing routers in that state, because attackers target known, unpatched flaws.

Find your router’s exact model and hardware version on its label, then look it up on the manufacturer’s end-of-life list. If it is listed, it will not get security fixes again, and the FBI and NSA both advise replacing it. If it isn’t listed, open the router’s app or admin page, install any pending firmware update, and turn on automatic updates.

This is an explainer based on manufacturers’ published support policies and US government guidance. Policies differ by brand and region, so check your own model rather than relying on a general rule.

Why do security updates matter for a router?

Your router sits between every device in your home and the internet. When researchers or attackers find a flaw in its software, the fix arrives as a firmware update. A router that no longer gets updates keeps every flaw found after that date.

The FBI described this in a public service announcement on May 7, 2025. It said that when a router reaches end of life, the manufacturer is “not actively supporting the hardware,” so there are no more software updates or security patches. It warned that criminals were exploiting such routers with a malware family called TheMoon, which it said “allows cyber actors to install proxies on unsuspecting victim routers,” routing other people’s criminal traffic through them. The FBI advised replacing end-of-life routers and turning off remote administration.

The NSA’s home network guidance, published in February 2023, says routers “should be updated to the latest patches, preferably through automatic updates,” and “should also be replaced when they reach end-of-life (EOL) for support.”

How long do manufacturers support routers?

Two details make a difference:

• The clock usually starts when the model stops being sold, not when you bought it. Netgear’s three years runs from the last sale date, which can vary by country or region. A router bought near the end of its sales life may have little support left.
• Eero’s dates are published per model. Its table runs from March 11, 2030 for the eero Pro and eero Beacon to October 31, 2031 for most newer models, including the eero 6, eero 7 and eero Max 7 lines. Eero says that after updates end, “your eero device will still work and can still provide wifi,” but without guaranteed security fixes.

How do I check my router?

1. Find the model and hardware version. It’s on the label on the bottom or back. Netgear says that if no version is shown, the product is version 1. ASUS also points to the label and the box.
2. Search the maker’s list.
   • Netgear: search the End of Service Products page by model number. Netgear also offers end-of-service alerts if you register your product.
   • ASUS: check the End-of-life product list. ASUS notes that end-of-life status can vary by region.
   • TP-Link: check the TP-Link End of Life Products list, and note that dates vary by region.
   • eero: find your model’s date on the eero Software Security Updates page.
3. Check the firmware date. In the router’s app or admin page, look for the firmware version and an update option. Install anything pending.
4. Turn on automatic updates if your router offers them. Apple’s router guidance recommends setting routers to install firmware updates automatically. Eero installs updates automatically and lets you choose a preferred time under Settings, Software updates, Preferred update time.

For provider-supplied gateways, ask the provider. They typically manage firmware for their own equipment.

What if my router is no longer supported?

Plan to replace it. In the meantime, reduce the risk:

• Turn off remote administration. The FBI says to “disable remote management/remote administration, save the change, and reboot the router.”
• Change the admin password to a strong, unique one. The FBI recommends passwords of 16 to 64 characters.
• Turn off features you don’t use, such as WPS and UPnP. See should you turn off WPS and UPnP.
• Move smart home devices to a separate network if the router supports one. See guest networks for smart home devices.

When you buy a replacement, check how long the maker supports its routers before you choose. Our router hardening checklist covers the settings to change on day one, and our guides to Wi-Fi 6 vs. Wi-Fi 6E and router vs. mesh help with the choice. Under the FCC’s 2026 router rule, previously authorized models can still be bought; see our news report on TP-Link and the FCC for the current state of that rule.

Fact-check notes

Bottom line

Check your router’s model on its maker’s end-of-life list today, and turn on automatic updates. If it’s no longer supported, switch off remote administration and plan a replacement. When you buy the next one, add the maker’s update policy to the spec sheet you compare.

Short answer: Florida, Iowa, Montana and Nebraska sued TP-Link on October 6, 2026, joining a Texas suit from February. The states allege it misled consumers about router security and its ties to China; TP-Link denies the claims, and no court has ruled. Owning or using a TP-Link router remains legal. Check that yours still gets firmware updates.

Four more US states sued router maker TP-Link on October 6, 2026, bringing the number of state lawsuits to five. Florida, Iowa, Montana and Nebraska accuse the company of misleading consumers about how secure its routers are and about its ties to China, following a similar Texas suit filed in February. TP-Link denies the claims, and no court has ruled on them.

If you own a TP-Link router, nothing about the lawsuits requires you to stop using it. What matters for your network today is the same as for any router: whether it still receives security updates. This is a news report based on the attorneys general’s announcements, TP-Link’s response and FCC documents. We have not read the full court filings.

What happened?

Iowa’s suit is brought under the Iowa Consumer Fraud Act. The attorneys general announced the other suits as consumer-protection cases. We have not confirmed the court or statute for each one.

What do the states allege?

The announcements we read make overlapping claims. In summary, the states allege that TP-Link:

• Marketed its routers as secure while, according to Texas, its products were used by Chinese state-sponsored hackers in cyberattacks against the United States.
• Misled consumers about where its products are made. Iowa says that despite TP-Link’s statements that its routers are made in Vietnam, much of its research, development and manufacturing is in China and nearly all parts come from or through China.
• Hid its ties to China. Texas says those ties subject the company to Chinese laws that require support for intelligence services. Iowa’s announcement goes further and says TP-Link firmware gives the Chinese government access to users’ devices and data.

These are claims in lawsuits, not findings. Courts have not decided any of them, and TP-Link disputes them.

What does TP-Link say?

In a statement dated October 6, 2026, TP-Link’s corporate affairs officer Steve Kovsky called the lawsuits “built on false premises” and claims of foreign access “baseless.” The company describes itself as “an independent, U.S. company that is not owned or controlled by any foreign government,” says its devices sold in the US are made in Vietnam, and says it will not share customer network data with foreign governments. It says it looks forward to “refuting these baseless allegations in court.”

Is it still legal to own or buy a TP-Link router?

Yes to owning one. The lawsuits are actions against the company. They don’t create rules for people who own its products.

Buying is shaped by a separate federal rule. On March 23, 2026, the FCC added foreign-produced routers from every manufacturer to its Covered List. Under that rule, new models need a Conditional Approval to be authorized for sale. The FCC’s FAQ, updated May 12, 2026, says consumers using these routers “do not need to do anything,” and that consumers “will continue to be able to purchase previously authorized routers.”

The FCC’s list of routers with Conditional Approval, updated October 9, 2026, includes Netgear, ASUS and eero, among others. TP-Link is not on it.

On October 7, a Nebraska-led group of 21 state attorneys general wrote to the FCC about TP-Link’s pending request for that approval. Their announcement says their security concerns “must be addressed before a decision is made.” The same announcement claims TP-Link controls at least 60 percent of the US retail market for Wi-Fi systems and small office and home routers. That figure is the attorneys general’s claim; we have not verified it independently.

For more on how the rule affects which new routers reach US stores, see our Wi-Fi 8 availability report.

What should TP-Link owners do now?

The lawsuits don’t change your router’s security from one day to the next. These steps apply to any router, and they are the ones that make a practical difference:

1. Update the firmware. Check the TP-Link app or admin page for an update, and turn on automatic updates if your model offers them.
2. Check whether your model is still supported. A router that no longer receives security updates is a reason to replace it, whoever made it.
3. If your internet provider supplied it, ask the provider. TP-Link’s advisory on its Aginet equipment, the line it makes for internet providers to supply and manage, covers five flaws, CVE-2025-30237 to CVE-2025-30241. TP-Link says fixes reach those devices “via ISP-managed update mechanisms” and that firmware for provider versions may not be available for direct download. If no update appears, contact your provider.
4. Lock down the basics. Change the admin password, turn off remote management and WPS, and keep smart home devices on a separate network. See our router hardening checklist, WPS and UPnP guide and guest network guide.

If you decide to replace your router anyway, our guide to buying your own router vs. using your provider’s covers what to check first.

What happens next?

The cases will proceed in state courts, and TP-Link has said it will contest them. Separately, the FCC has not announced a decision on TP-Link’s request to sell new router models. We’ll update this article when either changes.

Fact-check notes

Bottom line

Five states now accuse TP-Link of misleading customers, and TP-Link says the cases have no merit. None of that changes whether you can use the router in your home. Make sure it’s updated and still supported, ask your provider about any provider-supplied TP-Link equipment, and follow the FCC’s decision on new models if you are shopping.

Short answer: If you plug your own router or mesh system into your internet provider's gateway, both devices may route traffic, which is called double NAT. It often works fine for browsing, but can cause console NAT warnings and confusing settings. The usual fix is to put the provider's gateway in bridge mode so only your router routes. If the gateway can't be bridged, put your own router in access point mode instead.

When you plug your own router or mesh system into the gateway your internet provider supplied, you can end up with two routers doing the same job, which is called double NAT. It often goes unnoticed, but it can trigger game console warnings and make some features misbehave. The fix is to let only one device route: put the provider’s gateway in bridge mode, or, if it can’t be bridged, put your own router in access point mode.

This is a how-to based on Xfinity, eero, Netgear and TP-Link support documentation. We have not tested these setups ourselves, and menu names vary between models.

What is double NAT?

NAT stands for Network Address Translation. Your internet provider gives your home one public address. Your router hands each device a private address, and NAT translates between the two so all your devices can share the connection. Eero describes it as a way for several devices to share one public IP address.

A provider gateway is a single box that combines a modem and a router. If you connect your own router behind it, and both keep routing, traffic is translated twice: that is double NAT. Eero describes it as two routers performing NAT, which creates two separate networks.

Does double NAT cause problems?

Sometimes. Web browsing, streaming and video calls usually work, because those connections start from your device. Problems show up with things that need devices to reach each other or accept connections from outside:

• Game consoles. Xbox support lists “Double NAT detected” as one of the errors that can stop party chat and multiplayer from working.
• Two networks with the same name. Eero warns that running two networks with the same Wi-Fi name at once “will lead to technical complications.” Devices can join the gateway’s Wi-Fi and lose sight of devices on yours.
• General reliability. TP-Link says double NAT can cause “connectivity and performance issues.”
• Port forwarding. With two routers, a port has to be opened on both, which is easy to get wrong.

Eero also points out that double NAT has one upside: it lets you set up a new system quickly without changing the provider’s equipment. Some setups start that way and fix it afterward.

How do I check whether I have double NAT?

Open your own router’s app or admin page and find its internet (WAN) address. If it begins with 192.168., 10. or anything from 172.16. to 172.31., your router is getting a private address from the device in front of it, which usually means double NAT. Those three ranges are reserved for private networks by RFC 1918, the internet standard that defines them. Treat this as a strong hint rather than proof: some providers run their own network-level NAT, which can also leave your router without a public address.

On an Xbox, Xbox support says the NAT type and any “Double NAT detected” message appear under Profile & system, Settings, General, Network settings.

How do I fix it: bridge mode or access point mode?

Pick one device to do the routing.

The router makers’ own guidance leans toward bridging the gateway:

• Eero recommends putting the modem-router combo in bridge mode for the best performance and access to all eero features.
• TP-Link recommends bridge mode on a combined modem-router to avoid double NAT when adding Deco.
• Netgear prefers bridge mode on the provider gateway. If that isn’t possible, it says “you must turn its WiFi off and put your Orbi or Nighthawk router in AP mode,” and notes that “some router features are disabled in AP mode.”

How do I put an Xfinity gateway in bridge mode?

Xfinity documents these steps for its gateways:

1. On a device connected to your home network, go to the Admin Tool at http://10.0.0.1. You may need to allow Admin Tool access in the Xfinity app first.
2. Sign in with the username admin and the password on the sticker on the gateway, unless you changed it.
3. Go to Gateway, then At a Glance.
4. Next to Bridge Mode, click Enable, then OK at the warning. The gateway may restart.
5. Connect your own router to any Ethernet port on the gateway.

Things Xfinity says to know first:

• Only one device can be connected to the gateway while it is in bridge mode.
• You can still use the Xfinity app to manage your account, but not to manage and personalize your network or use WiFi Extenders.
• Xfinity CyberSecure isn’t available in bridge mode, and you can’t enable bridge mode if you have already activated WiFi Extenders.
• Bridge mode doesn’t turn off the Xfinity WiFi Home Hotspot feature on gateways that have it.
• To turn bridge mode off later, the device you use must be connected to the gateway by Ethernet.

Other providers’ gateways may work differently. Check your provider’s help pages.

When would I bridge my own router instead?

Usually, you wouldn’t; it’s the provider’s gateway you bridge. But eero lists cases where its own system may need to be bridged and the provider’s equipment kept as the router: if your provider is AT&T U-verse and its equipment provides Wi-Fi and addressing, if your provider requires PPPoE (a login-based connection type), or if your provider requires a specific MAC address that matches its own equipment. Eero notes that eero Pro 6 and eero 6 now support PPPoE.

Eero says that in bridge mode you “won’t be able to manage your network’s advanced features through the eero App,” and that eero Plus features including Advanced Security, Ad Blocking and Content Filters don’t work properly. To set it, eero’s path is Settings, Advanced networking, DHCP & NAT, then switch from Automatic to Bridge.

A setup checklist

1. Decide which device routes. Usually your own router, with the gateway bridged.
2. Bridge the gateway or, if it can’t be bridged, set your router to AP mode. Not both.
3. If you can’t bridge, turn off the gateway’s Wi-Fi. TP-Link advises against giving the gateway and your system the same network name.
4. Wire correctly. TP-Link says not to connect more than one Deco directly to the existing router in Router mode, because it can create a network loop.
5. Check the result. Your router’s WAN address should now be a public address, not one starting with 192.168., 10. or 172.16 to 31. Run the network test on any game console.

If you are still deciding whether to keep renting the gateway at all, see buying your own router vs. using your provider’s. For console NAT types, see our WPS and UPnP guide and gaming router guide. For choosing the system you’ll plug in, see router vs. mesh.

Fact-check notes

Bottom line

Two routers in a row works, but it isn’t tidy. Bridge the provider’s gateway so your own router does the routing, and accept that the gateway’s extra features go away. If the gateway can’t be bridged, turn off its Wi-Fi and put your router in AP mode. Then check your router’s WAN address and your console’s NAT type to confirm the fix.

Short answer: Change your router's DNS if you want features your provider's DNS doesn't offer, mainly blocking known malicious sites or a published privacy policy you prefer. Don't expect faster downloads; DNS only affects the lookup before a connection starts. Set it once on the router and every device on the network uses it.

Change your router’s DNS if you want something your internet provider’s DNS doesn’t give you: blocking of known malicious websites, filtering for a family network, or a privacy policy you prefer. Don’t change it expecting faster downloads. DNS handles the lookup before a connection starts, not the connection itself.

This is a how-to based on the DNS providers’ and router makers’ own documentation. We have not measured DNS speeds for this guide.

What does DNS do?

DNS stands for Domain Name System. When you type a website name, your device asks a DNS server for the site’s numeric IP address, then connects to that address. It works like a phone book lookup before the call.

By default your router uses DNS servers assigned by your internet provider, and passes them on to every device that joins your network. Netgear’s support notes that “most ISPs supply DNS addresses automatically.” Changing the DNS setting on the router changes it for every device that gets its settings from the router, including smart TVs and other devices with no DNS option of their own.

Will changing DNS make my internet faster?

Not your download speed. Once the lookup finishes, the connection runs at the speed your plan and Wi-Fi allow, whichever DNS server answered.

Lookups can still add delay to page loading. Google’s Public DNS documentation says “DNS lookups significantly impact website loading speed,” especially on pages that pull content from many domains, and gives an example in which five lookups made up several seconds of an 11-second page load. That example is Google’s own illustration, not a measurement of any particular DNS provider. Whether a different server is quicker than your provider’s depends on where you are and which servers are closer, so if speed is your reason, test before and after rather than assuming.

For streaming, gaming and downloads, see how much internet speed you need and why Wi-Fi can be slow when your internet is fast.

Which public DNS should I choose?

Three widely used free services, with their own published details:

All three also publish IPv6 addresses. For Cloudflare’s standard service they are 2606:4700:4700::1111 and 2606:4700:4700::1001; for Google, 2001:4860:4860::8888 and 2001:4860:4860::8844.

How to choose:

• For protection from known malicious sites, use a filtering option: Quad9’s 9.9.9.9 or Cloudflare’s 1.1.1.2. Quad9 also offers 9.9.9.10 without malware blocking, which it labels “for experts only!”
• For a family network, Cloudflare’s 1.1.1.3 adds adult-content blocking.
• For no filtering at all, use Cloudflare’s 1.1.1.1 or Google’s 8.8.8.8.
• For privacy, read each provider’s policy in full. The summaries above are their own statements, and we have not audited them.

DNS filtering is one layer, not a security system. It only blocks domains already on the provider’s lists, and devices set to use their own DNS bypass the router’s setting. Pair it with the basics in our router hardening checklist.

How do I change DNS on my router?

Before you start, write down the DNS addresses your router uses now. Google recommends recording your current settings so you can switch back. Enter two addresses, a primary and a secondary from the same service, and don’t use the same address in both fields.

eero

1. Open the eero app and tap Settings.
2. Tap Advanced networking, then DNS.
3. Turn on Custom DNS and enter the IPv4 and, if you want, IPv6 addresses.
4. Tap Save. Eero says the network reboots to push the change to devices.

If DNS settings are grayed out, eero says to turn off eero Plus filters, Advanced Security and Ad Blocking first, under Home, Security & privacy, Network Controls.

Netgear

1. Browse to routerlogin.net and sign in.
2. Go to BASIC, then Internet.
3. Under Domain Name Server (DNS) Address, select Use These DNS Servers.
4. Enter the Primary DNS and Secondary DNS, then click Apply.

Other routers and provider gateways

Google notes that “every router uses a different user interface for configuring DNS server settings.” Look in the router’s app or admin page for DNS under Internet, WAN or advanced network settings.

Some provider gateways won’t let you change DNS. Google warns that “some ISPs hard-code their DNS servers into the equipment they provide.” If that’s your situation, set DNS on your own router placed behind the gateway, or on individual devices. Our guide to buying your own router vs. using your provider’s covers that setup.

How do I check it worked?

After the change, restart a device or reconnect it to Wi-Fi so it picks up the new settings, then:

• Visit a few sites to confirm they load. If nothing loads, recheck the addresses for typos.
• Check the device’s network details for the DNS servers it received. Some routers hand out their own address and forward lookups to your chosen servers; eero does this with some features turned on, so you may see the router’s address instead.
• If you chose a filtering service, the provider may offer a way to confirm you’re using it. Quad9, for example, links to a tool for searching blocked domains.

If something breaks, enter the addresses you wrote down, or switch the router back to getting DNS automatically.

Fact-check notes

Bottom line

Changing your router’s DNS is quick, reversible and covers every device on the network. Do it for malware or content filtering, or for a privacy policy you prefer, and pick the service by those features. Don’t do it to fix slow speeds; check your plan and Wi-Fi for that. Write down your current settings before you start.

Short answer: Check your bill first. If your plan already includes the provider's gateway at no extra charge, buying your own saves nothing and is worth it only for better coverage or control. If you pay a monthly equipment fee, owning your router can remove it: federal law bars providers from charging for equipment you supply yourself. Either way, confirm the device is compatible with your service before you buy.

Start with your bill. If you pay a monthly fee for the provider’s modem, router or gateway, owning your own equipment can remove that charge. If your plan already includes the equipment at no extra cost, which is how Xfinity describes its latest plans, buying your own saves nothing and is worth doing only for better Wi-Fi or more control.

Internet providers usually supply a gateway, a single box that combines a modem (which connects to the provider’s line) and a Wi-Fi router (which creates your home network). This guide explains what the law says about equipment fees, how to check what you pay, and what changes if you switch to your own. It is a research-based guide drawn from federal law, FCC documents and one provider’s published policies. We could not verify equipment fees from provider pages, so we don’t quote any.

Can my provider charge for equipment I don’t use?

No. A federal law, 47 U.S.C. 562, says fixed broadband and TV providers may not charge you for “using covered equipment provided by the consumer.” They also may not charge rent for equipment they never gave you, or for equipment you have already returned. The law defines covered equipment as equipment “such as a router” used on your premises to receive the service.

The rule comes from the Television Viewer Protection Act of 2019. It was due to take effect on June 20, 2020, and the FCC extended that to December 20, 2020, citing the COVID-19 emergency.

So if you return the provider’s equipment and use your own, an equipment rental charge should come off your bill. If it doesn’t, ask the provider to remove it.

How do I check what I pay for equipment now?

1. Look for an equipment line on your bill. It may be labeled as a gateway, modem, router or Wi-Fi equipment charge. If there is none, your equipment is either included in the plan price or yours already.
2. Read the plan’s broadband label. The FCC requires providers to show these labels at the point of sale, and they must disclose prices, introductory rates, data allowances and speeds.
3. Check what your plan includes. Xfinity, for example, says: “The latest Xfinity Internet plans include the Xfinity Gateway at no extra cost.” If you are on an older plan, the answer may differ.

We have not listed fee amounts for any provider. Fees vary by plan, region and date, and the provider pages we tried either didn’t list them or couldn’t be opened for checking.

What are the options?

The middle option is often the easiest upgrade. You keep the provider’s equipment, which is guaranteed to work with the service, and plug your own router or mesh system into it. That gets you better coverage without any compatibility check on the modem side. Having two routers in a row can cause a “double NAT,” which some game consoles flag; the usual fix is to set the provider’s gateway to bridge mode or use your router’s access point mode. Our bridge mode and double NAT guide walks through both. Our gaming router guide and WPS and UPnP guide explain NAT.

What do I need to check before buying my own?

Compatibility. A cable modem or gateway has to work with your provider’s network and support your speed tier. Xfinity says: “Your modem must work with Xfinity and support your internet speed,” and directs customers to a compatibility lookup called My Device Info. It adds that unsupported devices won’t work. Check your own provider’s list if you are not with Xfinity, and see our guide to DOCSIS 3.0 vs. 3.1 vs. 4.0 modems. A Wi-Fi router plugged in behind the provider’s equipment doesn’t need this check.

Speed. Match the modem and router ports to your plan. A plan faster than 1 Gbps needs multi-gigabit ports; see do you need a multi-gig router. See how much internet speed you need and our Ethernet cable guide.

Responsibility. Xfinity says that with your own equipment you are responsible for “keeping your device updated and secure,” “troubleshooting problems with your device” and “setting up and managing your WiFi security.” Our router hardening checklist covers the security side.

Features tied to rented equipment. Xfinity lists several benefits of its rented gateway: app controls such as pausing devices, its Xfinity CyberSecure security service, its WiFi Extenders, and access to Xfinity WiFi hotspots away from home. Check which of these you use before returning the gateway.

Fiber and fixed wireless. Options on fiber and 5G home internet differ by provider, and we couldn’t open those providers’ support pages for this guide. Xfinity notes that in communities where internet reaches each unit over fiber, “any standard router compatible with your speed tier can be used.” Check your own provider’s support pages before buying.

Does the FCC’s router rule affect what I can buy?

Not in a way that stops you buying a router. On March 23, 2026, the FCC added routers produced in foreign countries to its Covered List. The FCC’s FAQ, updated May 12, 2026, says new foreign-produced models can’t receive FCC authorization unless they get a Conditional Approval. Routers that already have FCC authorization, shown by the FCC ID on the device, “may continue to be imported, sold, and used in the U.S.”

For consumers, the FCC says: “Consumers currently using covered routers in small and home offices do not need to do anything,” and “Consumers will continue to be able to purchase previously authorized routers.” The FCC also confirms that provider-supplied gateways that combine a modem and router “fall within the scope of the determination.”

In practice, the rule limits which new models reach US stores, not whether you can buy a router at all. Our Wi-Fi 8 availability report covers which makers held Conditional Approvals as of October 2, 2026.

Should I buy my own?

If you decide on a mesh system, our guides to router vs. mesh and mesh picks for large houses cover the choice.

Fact-check notes

Bottom line

Read the equipment line on your bill before you buy anything. If there is a fee, the law is on your side: return the provider’s equipment, buy a compatible replacement, and the charge should go. If the equipment is included, keep it and spend the money on coverage instead, with a mesh system plugged in behind the provider’s gateway.

Short answer: Many smart home devices can only use the 2.4 GHz band, and setup can fail when your router combines all bands under one network name. Temporarily hide the 5 GHz band (eero has a button for this), or move your phone farther from the router so it switches to 2.4 GHz, then run setup again. Splitting the bands into separate names permanently works too, but Apple warns it can make other devices connect less reliably.

If a smart plug, camera or bulb won’t finish setup, the likely reason is the Wi-Fi band. Many smart home devices only work on 2.4 GHz, while your phone, which runs the setup app, is probably on 5 GHz. Get the phone onto 2.4 GHz for a few minutes, by pausing the 5 GHz band or moving farther from the router, then run setup again.

This is a how-to guide based on the router makers’ own support documentation. We have not tested these steps on every router, and menu names change between app versions.

Why do smart home devices need 2.4 GHz?

Wi-Fi uses three bands: 2.4 GHz, 5 GHz and, on newer routers, 6 GHz. Many smart home devices have a radio for 2.4 GHz only. Google’s support page says some smart home devices “can only use the 2.4 Ghz band and do not support 5 and 6 Ghz,” and eero says many smart home and IoT devices require 2.4 GHz. (IoT stands for Internet of Things, the umbrella term for connected household devices.)

The 2.4 GHz band also reaches farther. TP-Link’s Kasa support notes that it “typically provides a longer range than the 5 GHz band,” which suits devices placed in garages, porches and far corners. Our Wi-Fi bands guide explains the trade-offs.

Why does setup fail on a modern router?

Most current routers broadcast one network name (SSID) for all bands and decide which band each device uses. This is called band steering. Netgear and TP-Link call their version Smart Connect, and eero and Google work this way by default. Our band steering explainer covers how it works and when to turn it off.

For everyday use that is helpful. Setup is where it can go wrong, because your phone may sit on 5 GHz while the device can only use 2.4 GHz. Google says you “may need to connect your phone to the 2.4 GHz band manually” to set up a 2.4 GHz-only device.

The fix is to get the phone, and so the device, onto 2.4 GHz for the length of the setup.

How do I connect a 2.4 GHz device on my router?

eero

Eero has a built-in option for exactly this:

1. Open the eero app and tap Settings.
2. Scroll down and tap Troubleshooting.
3. Tap My device won’t connect, then My device is 2.4 GHz only.
4. Tap Pause 5 GHz and 6 GHz.
5. Run the device’s setup while the pause is on.

The bands turn back on by themselves. Eero’s two support articles give different durations: one says the pause lasts “for up to 10 minutes,” the other says 30 minutes. Start setup right away to be safe. Eero says devices that connect during the pause stay connected after the bands return, and that there is no way to permanently split eero’s bands into separate names.

Google Nest Wifi and Google Wifi

Google’s system uses one network name, and its help page doesn’t describe a way to switch off 5 GHz. It suggests two approaches:

• Use your phone’s own settings to pick the 2.4 GHz band, if your phone allows it. Check the phone’s manual.
• Otherwise, “move farther away from your router and point until your phone moves to the 2.4 GHz band,” then continue setup. This works because 2.4 GHz reaches farther than 5 GHz.

Netgear

Netgear says Smart Connect “combines your NETGEAR router’s WiFi bands into a single WiFi network name,” and that it “might or might not be disabled by default” depending on the model. Turning it off gives each band its own name, such as NETGEARWIFI for 2.4 GHz and NETGEARWIFI-5G for 5 GHz. To turn it off, sign in at routerlogin.net, open the Wireless page (some models use Settings, Setup, Wireless Setup), clear Enable Smart Connect, and click Apply.

TP-Link

TP-Link says that with Smart Connect on, “both bands share the same network name (SSID) and password,” and suggests turning it off for devices that struggle with that. In the web interface it is under Advanced, Wireless, Wireless Settings. In the Tether app it is under More, Wi-Fi Settings, 2.4GHz & 5GHz.

Should I keep the bands split permanently?

Usually not. The advice differs between manufacturers, and the difference matters:

• TP-Link’s Kasa support recommends using “a different network name (SSID) for the 5 GHz band than for the 2.4 GHz band” when setting up its devices.
• Apple recommends one name for all bands and warns: “If you give your 2.4 GHz, 5 GHz, or 6 GHz bands different names, devices might not connect reliably to your network.”

A temporary fix, like eero’s pause or Google’s move-farther-away approach, avoids the conflict. If your router only offers a permanent split, here is one approach to test. It is our suggestion, not a manufacturer instruction: keep your original network name on the 2.4 GHz band and give 5 GHz a new name. Devices already set up on 2.4 GHz should keep connecting, and you can move phones and laptops to the 5 GHz name.

Be aware that if you later turn Smart Connect back on and the network name changes, devices set up on the old name may need setting up again.

What else can stop a smart device from connecting?

If the band isn’t the problem, check these:

• The password. Re-type it carefully; setup apps rarely show which character is wrong.
• Distance. Do setup near where the device will live, and make sure the signal is reasonable there.
• Security settings. Some older devices don’t support WPA3. Kasa’s support suggests WPA2 with AES. A WPA2/WPA3 mixed mode lets both old and new devices connect; see WPA2 vs. WPA3.
• Channel settings. Kasa’s support suggests a 2.4 GHz channel of 1, 6 or 11 and a 20 MHz channel width. Apple also recommends 20 MHz for 2.4 GHz, saying it “helps to avoid performance and reliability issues.”
• The phone. Kasa’s support suggests trying a different phone, and making the phone forget any saved network profile before reconnecting.

Where should smart devices live once they’re connected?

Consider a guest or IoT network. Separating smart devices from your laptops and phones is what the NSA recommends, and it works the same way for 2.4 GHz-only devices, as long as that network includes 2.4 GHz. Our guide to putting smart home devices on a guest network covers the setup and what can break. For Matter and Thread devices, which can connect differently, see Matter and Thread, explained.

Fact-check notes

Bottom line

A smart device that won’t connect usually needs 2.4 GHz while your phone is on 5 GHz. Use a temporary fix first: eero’s pause button, or moving farther from a Google router. On Netgear and TP-Link, turning off Smart Connect works but changes your network permanently, so weigh it against Apple’s advice to keep one name. Once the device is connected, a guest or IoT network is a good place for it.

Short answer: Most players don't need a gaming router. Online games use little bandwidth, and lag usually comes from Wi-Fi, a busy connection or distance to the game server. The gaming feature that helps most is traffic prioritization (QoS), which many ordinary routers also offer. A gaming router makes sense if you want those controls built in and plan to wire your console or PC. This is a research-based guide, not a hands-on test.

Most players don’t need a gaming router. Online games send and receive very little data, so a faster router rarely makes them smoother. Lag usually comes from a weak Wi-Fi link, other people using the connection at the same moment, or the distance to the game server. The one gaming feature that targets a real cause is traffic prioritization, and many ordinary routers have it too.

A gaming router is a router sold with features aimed at games: a priority port, game-traffic prioritization, and sometimes a paid route service. This is a research-based guide built from the manufacturers’ own descriptions of those features. We have not tested gaming routers, and none of the manufacturer pages we reviewed gives measured latency results.

What actually causes lag in online games?

Two different things get called “lag.”

Latency is the time data takes to travel to the game server and back, measured in milliseconds (ms) and often shown in games as ping. Bandwidth is how much data the connection can carry per second, measured in megabits per second (Mbps). Games are sensitive to latency and need little bandwidth.

The FCC’s broadband speed guide, last reviewed on July 18, 2022, lists 4 Mbps as the minimum download speed for online multiplayer gaming and 3 Mbps for a game console connecting to the internet. Almost any current plan covers that many times over.

Latency gets worse in three common ways, and only one of them is something a router controls:

The first one has a name, bufferbloat. Our bufferbloat guide explains how to test for it.

Cloud gaming is the exception to “games need little bandwidth.” There, the game runs on a remote server and is streamed to you like video. NVIDIA lists 25 Mbps for its GeForce NOW service at 1080p and 60 frames per second, and 45 Mbps for 4K at 120 frames per second. It also requires less than 80 ms of latency to its data center.

What do gaming router features do?

ASUS publishes the clearest breakdown, describing three “levels” of game acceleration on its ROG gaming routers. Other brands sell similar features under different names.

QoS stands for Quality of Service, a router setting that decides which traffic goes first when the connection is busy.

The route service is a separate company’s product. TP-Link offers WTFast on its Archer GE800, GE650, GE550 and GXE75 routers and says users can “play without any restrictions for the first month,” which indicates a paid subscription after that. TP-Link lists “lower latency, reduced packet loss, and minimized ping” among the claims, without figures. Treat it as something to trial against the games you actually play, not as a reason to buy a particular router.

Do ordinary routers have the same features?

The one that matters, traffic prioritization, is common. Two examples:

• Netgear Dynamic QoS on Nighthawk routers “resolves traffic congestion when the Internet bandwidth is limited.” Netgear says it can help if your speeds are “250 Mbps or less” and you game or stream, and that at 300 Mbps or faster “you don’t need to use Dynamic QoS.”
• eero’s “Optimize for Conferencing and Gaming”, a beta feature in the eero Labs section of the app. Eero says it “queues wifi traffic and limits the amount of bandwidth certain devices can use,” is “best for internet connections under 500 Mbps,” and that “you may see slower performance on certain devices.”

Both manufacturers make the same point from different directions. Prioritization helps most on slower plans, where a single upload or download can fill the connection. On a fast plan there is more headroom, so the same activity is less likely to slow your game. And prioritizing one thing can slow others.

To check what your router offers, look for “QoS,” “SQM” (smart queue management), “traffic prioritization” or “gaming” in its settings or app.

What doesn’t help?

• Higher maximum Wi-Fi speeds. A router’s headline speed is usually the combined theoretical rate of all its radios; TP-Link’s Archer BE230, sold as a BE3600 router, for example, adds a 2,882 Mbps 5 GHz radio to a 688 Mbps 2.4 GHz radio. Games use a few Mbps. See how much internet speed you need.
• The “gaming” label on its own. It describes features, not performance. Compare the features in the table above, then check whether your current router already has them.
• A new router to fix NAT type. An Open NAT type, which consoles need for party chat and hosting, comes from UPnP or port forwarding. Every router has at least one. Our guide to WPS and UPnP covers the trade-off.
• More bandwidth for a lag problem. If ping is high with nobody else online, a faster plan won’t lower it.

What should I try before buying one?

In rough order of cost:

1. Use a cable. Connect the console or PC to the router with Ethernet. It removes Wi-Fi from the equation and is what a gaming port assumes anyway. NVIDIA recommends “a hardwired Ethernet connection, or a router with a 5 GHz WiFi connection” for GeForce NOW. Our Ethernet cable guide covers which cable to buy.
2. If you can’t wire it, use 5 GHz. Make sure the console or PC is on 5 GHz and not 2.4 GHz. See our Wi-Fi bands guide.
3. Test whether lag follows other people’s activity. Run a speed test that reports latency under load while someone else uploads. If ping jumps, it is congestion.
4. Turn on your router’s QoS or SQM feature, if it has one, and test again.
5. Check NAT type on the console and fix it with UPnP or port forwarding.
6. Only then consider a new router, and choose it by the features you found you need.

Who should buy a gaming router?

We have not included prices. We only publish a price with the date we checked it.

Fact-check notes

Bottom line

A gaming router is an ordinary router with a few traffic features and a label. Before buying one, wire your console or PC, check whether lag follows other people’s activity, and look for QoS in the router you already own. If your router lacks prioritization and congestion is the cause, buy one that has it, gaming-branded or not.

Short answer: MoCA is a standard for sending network traffic over coaxial cable, the kind installed for cable TV. A pair of MoCA 2.5 adapters can link a router to a distant room at up to 2.5 Gbps without new wiring. It works alongside cable TV and cable internet, but not on coax used by satellite TV, and you should fit a point-of-entry filter. This is a research-based guide, not a hands-on test.

MoCA is a way to send your home network over coaxial cable, the round screw-on cable installed for cable TV. If your house has coax outlets in the rooms where Wi-Fi is weak, a pair of MoCA adapters can turn that cable into a wired network link at up to 2.5 Gbps, with no new cable to run.

MoCA stands for Multimedia over Coax Alliance, the industry group that writes the specification and certifies products. This is a research-based guide. It draws on the alliance’s published specifications and on documentation from two adapter makers. We have not tested MoCA adapters ourselves, and the speed figures are specification and manufacturer claims.

How does MoCA work?

A MoCA adapter is a small box with a coax connector and an Ethernet port. One adapter sits next to your router, connected to it by Ethernet and to the wall by coax. A second adapter sits in another room, connected to that room’s coax outlet. The two adapters find each other over the coax in the walls and behave like a long Ethernet cable between the two rooms.

The reason this can share a cable with other services is frequency. Different signals travel on the same coax at different frequencies, the way radio stations share the air. The MoCA Alliance gives the technology’s overall operating range as 400 MHz to 1,675 MHz. Adapter maker goCoax says its MoCA 2.5 adapter works in the 1,125 to 1,675 MHz band, and describes cable internet’s typical upper limit as 1,002 MHz. MoCA sits above it.

To your router and devices, a MoCA link looks like Ethernet. There are no network names or Wi-Fi passwords involved.

How fast is MoCA?

The MoCA Alliance describes both figures as “actual data rates.” MoCA 2.5 is “backward interoperable with MoCA 2.0 and MoCA 1.1,” so mixed equipment will connect. Expect a link that involves an older device to run at the older device’s speed.

Three things decide what you get in practice:

• The adapter’s Ethernet port. A MoCA 2.5 adapter with a 1 Gbps Ethernet port can’t deliver more than 1 Gbps to the device plugged into it. For multi-gigabit speeds, look for a 2.5 Gbps Ethernet port. The goCoax MA2500D, for example, lists one 2.5GbE port.
• Shared capacity. Adapters on the same coax share one network, so heavy use in two rooms at once generally divides what is available.
• The coax itself. Old splitters, damaged cable and long runs reduce performance. We have no measured figures for how much, so treat 2.5 Gbps as a ceiling and not a promise.

For most homes this is academic. A plan of 1 Gbps or less fits comfortably inside a MoCA 2.5 link. See how much internet speed you need if you are sizing a plan.

Will MoCA work in my home?

Check four things before buying. If you have no usable coax, see whether powerline adapters are worth it instead.

The MoCA Alliance says the technology is “designed to co-exist with legacy services such as TV, DOCSIS, and cellular (4G/5G) technologies.” DOCSIS is the technology cable internet providers use.

If your internet arrives by fiber or a 5G gateway and the coax in your walls carries nothing, MoCA is the simplest case: the cable is yours to use.

Splitters matter too. MoCA signals reach 1,675 MHz, so every splitter between your adapters has to pass frequencies that high. An old splitter rated only to about 1,000 MHz can block or weaken the link. This follows from the frequency range above; check the rating printed on each splitter.

What do I need to buy?

• Two or more MoCA 2.5 adapters. One for the router end, one for each room. Choose adapters with a 2.5 Gbps Ethernet port if any of your equipment has 2.5 Gbps ports.
• A point-of-entry (PoE) filter. Check whether your adapter kit includes one before buying it separately.
• Short Ethernet cables. One per adapter. Our Ethernet cable guide covers which category to use.
• Possibly new splitters, if yours don’t pass MoCA frequencies.

We have left prices out because we only publish a price with the date we checked it.

Why do I need a point-of-entry filter?

Coax leaves your house. Without a filter, MoCA signals can travel back out along the incoming line. Hitron, which makes MoCA adapters, puts it this way: “MoCA filters block MoCA signals from leaking out of the home’s coaxial cabling,” and without one, signals can “interfere with neighboring MoCA networks or cable TV signals.”

The filter is a small barrel-shaped connector. Hitron’s instructions are to install it “at the point where the coaxial cable enters your home,” on the incoming line, ahead of the first splitter.

There is a security reason as well. The MoCA 2.5 specification added “Enhanced Privacy” with longer passwords, and the alliance describes a security feature called MoCASec for link privacy. Even so, a filter is the simple way to keep your network’s signals inside your own walls in the first place. Note that this “PoE” means point of entry. It is unrelated to Power over Ethernet, which shares the abbreviation.

How do I set it up?

1. Fit the PoE filter where the coax enters the home.
2. Connect the first adapter by the router. Coax from the wall to the adapter, Ethernet from the adapter to a LAN port on the router. If a cable modem needs the same wall outlet, use a splitter, or the adapter’s pass-through coax port if it has one.
3. Connect the second adapter in the other room. Coax from the wall to the adapter, Ethernet from the adapter to your device, switch or mesh unit.
4. Wait for the link light. Most adapters have a status light that shows a MoCA connection. If it stays off, the two outlets may not be on the same coax network, or a splitter may be blocking the signal.
5. Set up the security option if your adapters offer one, following the maker’s instructions.
6. Test the speed on a computer wired to the far adapter.

Is MoCA a good way to connect a mesh system?

Yes, where Ethernet isn’t available. A mesh unit connected through a MoCA adapter is using wired backhaul as far as the mesh system is concerned. That takes the unit-to-unit traffic off Wi-Fi, which is the main benefit of cabling a mesh system. Our guide to wired and wireless backhaul explains each brand’s cabling rules, and they apply here too.

If you have Ethernet jacks in the right rooms, use those. If you have coax in the right rooms, MoCA is the next best option. If you have neither, see mesh picks for large houses for systems suited to wireless-only homes.

Fact-check notes

Bottom line

MoCA turns coax you already have into a wired network link. It suits homes with coax outlets in the right rooms and no easy way to run Ethernet. Buy MoCA 2.5 adapters with Ethernet ports that match your equipment, fit a point-of-entry filter, and confirm nothing on that coax is satellite TV. If the link light comes on and a wired speed test looks right, you have the next best thing to Ethernet.

Short answer: Turn off WPS: its PIN method has a design flaw that lets someone in Wi-Fi range recover your password, and you can join devices by typing the password instead. Turn off UPnP unless something you use needs it, which the NSA recommends. Game consoles are the common exception, and port forwarding is the narrower alternative.

Turn off WPS. Turn off UPnP too, unless something you use stops working without it. Both features exist to save you a setup step, and both have documented security weaknesses. For most homes the only real cost of switching them off is a few minutes of extra setup, and for game consoles, a port-forwarding rule.

This is an explainer based on US government security guidance and published vulnerability notes. We have not tested routers for it.

What is WPS, and what is wrong with it?

WPS stands for Wi-Fi Protected Setup. The Wi-Fi Alliance, the industry group that certifies Wi-Fi products, says it was “designed to ease the setup of security-protected Wi-Fi networks in home and small office environments.” In practice it lets a device join your Wi-Fi without anyone typing the password, usually by pressing a button on the router or entering an 8-digit PIN.

The PIN is the problem. On December 27, 2011, the CERT Coordination Center at Carnegie Mellon University published a vulnerability note on a flaw reported by researcher Stefan Viehböck. The router checks the 8-digit PIN in two halves and tells the other side when the first half is right. The last digit is a checksum, a digit calculated from the others. Together those reduce the number of guesses needed from 100 million to 11,000.

CERT’s note says an attacker within wireless range can “brute force the WPS PIN and retrieve the password for the wireless network, change the configuration of the access point, or cause a denial of service.” A long Wi-Fi password does not help, because the attack goes around it.

CERT’s recommended solution was to disable the feature. The Cybersecurity and Infrastructure Security Agency (CISA) says the same in its home Wi-Fi guidance: WPS “increases the likelihood that a threat actor could gain unauthorized access to your Wi-Fi network.”

Is the button safer than the PIN?

The published flaw concerns the PIN. The button method opens a short window after someone physically presses it, so an attacker would need to be in range at that moment.

Whether you can keep the button and lose the PIN depends on your router. Some have separate settings, and many have a single WPS switch that controls both. The CERT note is from 2011 and router firmware has changed since, but you can’t easily verify how your own router handles repeated PIN attempts. If you can’t confirm the PIN method is off, turn WPS off altogether.

What do I use instead?

Type the password, or scan it. Many phones can share a Wi-Fi password by QR code, and printers and smart devices can be joined through their own apps or control panels. The Wi-Fi Alliance also has a newer setup method, Wi-Fi Easy Connect, which works by “scanning a product quick response (QR) code.” Whether you can use it depends on both the router and the device supporting it.

What is UPnP, and what is wrong with it?

UPnP stands for Universal Plug and Play. On a home router, it lets a device on your network ask the router to open a port, which is a numbered doorway for incoming connections from the internet. A game console might open ports so other players can connect to it. The device asks, the router agrees, and you never see a prompt.

That convenience is also the weakness. The router does not check whether the request is a good idea. Any device or program on your network can ask, including one that is infected or badly made.

Three official sources address it:

• The National Security Agency (NSA), in home network guidance published in February 2023: “Disable Universal Plug-n-Play (UPnP). These measures help close holes that may enable an attacker to compromise your network.”
• CISA: “Threat actors can use UPnP to spread malware to devices in your network and control them remotely.”
• CERT, in a note published January 29, 2013, on flaws found by security firm Rapid7 in a widely used UPnP software library: “A remote, unauthenticated attacker may be able to execute arbitrary code on the device or cause a denial of service.” One of its suggested workarounds was to disable UPnP.

That 2013 flaw was in one software library, and CERT’s note lists a fixed version of it. It is here as an example of the kind of problem UPnP has had, not as a current threat to your specific router. The NSA and CISA advice is the reason to act.

What breaks if I turn them off?

Turning off WPS breaks nothing that is already connected. Devices that joined by WPS should stay joined, because they store the password once connected.

Turning off UPnP is the one that can bite. Web browsing, streaming and video calls generally start from your device and reach outward, so they don’t need incoming ports. Multiplayer gaming and voice chat on consoles are different, because other players’ consoles need to connect in.

Xbox support explains the symptom: you can sign in, but “can’t hear your friends online within a game or a party” or can’t host or join a multiplayer game. It says “You need your NAT type to be Open to resolve this issue.” NAT (Network Address Translation) is how your router shares one internet address among all your devices, and the NAT type is the console’s measure of how easily others can reach it. The first fix Xbox lists is “Turn on UPnP.” The next ones it lists are opening ports with port forwarding, then a “perimeter network (also known as DMZ).”

Which should I choose for gaming: UPnP or port forwarding?

Port forwarding is the better fit for a household that wants UPnP off. You give the console a fixed address on your network, then forward the ports the console maker lists to that address. The exact ports are on each console maker’s support site.

If you decide to keep UPnP on for a console, reduce the exposure in other ways. Keep the router’s firmware current, and put smart home devices on a separate network so they can’t use UPnP on your main one. Our guide to guest networks for smart home devices covers how.

One note for gamers: an Open NAT type helps you connect to other players. It does not reduce lag. For that, see our bufferbloat guide.

How do I turn them off?

Menu names vary by brand, so look for the closest match in your router’s app or admin page.

1. Open the router’s settings in its app or by browsing to its admin address.
2. Find WPS. It is usually under wireless or Wi-Fi settings, sometimes under advanced settings. Turn it off, and if there is a separate PIN option, turn that off too.
3. Find UPnP. It is usually under advanced, network or NAT settings. Turn it off.
4. Save, then test. Check that devices still connect, and run the network test on any game console. On Xbox this is under Settings, General, Network settings.
5. Add port forwarding only for a device that now has a problem.
6. While you are there, turn off remote management. The NSA guidance says to “disable the ability to perform remote administration on the routing device.”

Your router or mesh system may not have a WPS setting at all. If you can’t find one, check the maker’s support pages before assuming WPS is on.

For the rest of the settings worth changing, see our router hardening checklist. For the security mode itself, see WPA2 vs. WPA3.

Fact-check notes

Bottom line

WPS saves you typing a password once and leaves a known weakness in place, so turn it off. UPnP is off in the NSA’s recommended setup, so turn that off too and see whether anything complains. If a game console does, forward its ports instead of switching UPnP back on. Neither change takes more than a few minutes, and both are easy to reverse.

Short answer: Yes for devices that only need the internet, such as cameras that work through a cloud app, smart plugs and TVs. A guest network keeps them from reaching your laptops and phones, which is what the NSA and FBI recommend. Devices you control directly from your phone, cast to, or print to may stop working there, so move one device first and test it.

For most smart home devices, yes. Cameras, plugs, TVs and speakers that only need an internet connection are better off on a guest network, where they can’t reach your laptops and phones. The trade-off is that the same separation can break features that need your phone and the device on one network. Move one device, test it, then move the rest.

Smart home devices are often called IoT devices, short for Internet of Things. They vary widely in how well they are secured and how long they are updated, and they usually sit on the same network as the computers that hold your email, banking and files. Separating the two groups is called network segmentation.

What do security agencies recommend?

Two US agencies give the same advice.

The National Security Agency (NSA), in home network guidance published in February 2023, says: “your wireless network should be segmented between your primary Wi-Fi, guest Wi-Fi, and IoT network. This segmentation keeps less secure devices from directly communicating with your more secure devices.”

The FBI’s Portland field office, in a public notice dated December 3, 2019, said: “Your fridge and your laptop should not be on the same network. Keep your most private, sensitive data on a separate system from your other IoT devices.”

Neither agency says smart devices are unsafe to own. The point is containment. If a device is compromised, it should not have a direct route to the machines that matter most.

How does a guest network separate devices?

A guest network is a second Wi-Fi network from the same router, with its own name and password. Devices on it get internet access but are walled off from your main network. How strict the wall is depends on the brand.

Settings and wording differ on other brands, and some routers have an option that lets guest devices see the main network. If yours has one, leave it off. That option removes the protection you are setting the network up for.

What can break when smart devices are on a guest network?

The wall works in both directions. Your phone on the main network may not be able to find a device on the guest network. Whether that matters depends on how the device is controlled.

The examples are typical patterns, not guarantees for any model. We have not tested devices for this guide, so check with one device before moving everything.

Google’s approach reduces the problem. Its guest network lets you select shared devices, described as “a Google streaming device, smart TV, wireless speaker, or printer,” that guests can still use.

Setup is the other snag. Many devices are set up by a phone app that expects the phone and device on the same Wi-Fi. If setup fails, join your phone to the guest network for the setup, then switch the phone back.

Which devices should go where?

This table is our application of the NSA and FBI principle to common devices. It is a starting point, not a rule from either agency.

Should visitors and smart devices share one guest network?

Ideally not. The NSA guidance names three networks: primary, guest and IoT. A visitor’s laptop and your cameras have no more reason to share a network than your own laptop does.

Many home routers offer only two: main and guest. In that case, putting smart devices on the guest network and giving visitors that password is still a clear improvement over a single network. On a system that isolates guest devices from each other, as eero does, the two groups can’t reach one another anyway.

If your router has a separate IoT network or supports VLANs (virtual networks that divide one router into several isolated ones), use that for smart devices and keep the guest network for people.

How do I set it up?

1. Turn on the guest network in your router’s app or admin page. On eero it is under Settings, then “Guest wifi network.” On Deco it is under More, then Guest Network. On Google’s systems it is in the Google Home app’s Wi-Fi settings.
2. Give it a different password from your main network. Eero and Google both say to do this. Use a long one; the NSA guidance recommends at least 20 characters for Wi-Fi passphrases.
3. Check the security mode. Use WPA3 or a WPA2/WPA3 mixed mode where the guest network offers it. Our WPA2 vs. WPA3 guide explains the options. Avoid an open guest network with no password.
4. Make sure 2.4 GHz is available on it. Many smart devices connect only on 2.4 GHz. Deco lets you choose which bands the guest network uses. See our guide to the Wi-Fi bands.
5. Move one device and test it. Remove it from the main network in its app, set it up again on the guest network, then check every feature you use, from both home and away.
6. Move the rest, leaving on the main network anything that failed the test and matters to you.
7. Leave any “access local network” option off.

Is a guest network enough on its own?

No. It limits where a compromised device can reach. It does not stop the device from being compromised, and it does not protect what the device itself sees or records.

The FBI notice lists the other steps: change default passwords, use a strong and unique password for each device, review what the companion app collects, and turn on automatic updates. Its advice on default passwords is blunt: if you can’t find out how to change one, consider a different product.

For the router’s own settings, work through our router hardening checklist. For how smart home devices connect in the first place, see Matter and Thread, explained.

Fact-check notes

Bottom line

Put smart home devices that only need the internet on a guest or IoT network, and keep computers, phones and storage on the main one. That is the separation the NSA and FBI describe. Expect a few features, mainly casting and local control, to need a workaround, and test with one device before you move the rest. Then finish the job with unique passwords and automatic updates.

Short answer: For most homes, Cat 6 is the cable to buy: it supports 5 Gbps over 100 meters and 10 Gbps over shorter runs. Cat 5e you already own is fine up to 2.5 Gbps. Choose Cat 6A for in-wall runs if you want 10 Gbps at any length. Skip Cat 8, which is a short-range data center cable, and avoid copper-clad aluminum (CCA) cable whatever category is printed on it.

For most homes, buy Cat 6. It supports 5 Gbps over the full 100 meters (328 feet) and 10 Gbps over shorter runs, which covers every port on current home routers and mesh systems. If you already have Cat 5e, keep it: it is good for up to 2.5 Gbps. Choose Cat 6A when you are putting cable inside walls and want 10 Gbps at any length. Cat 8 is built for data centers and is not worth buying for a house.

“Cat” is short for category, a performance grade defined in cabling standards. A higher category is built and tested to carry signals at higher frequencies, which allows higher speeds or longer runs at a given speed. This guide draws on the IEEE Ethernet standards and on Fluke Networks, which makes the test equipment installers use to certify cabling. We have not tested cables ourselves.

How do the Ethernet cable categories compare?

100 meters is 328 feet. 55 meters is about 180 feet, 37 meters about 121 feet, and 30 meters about 98 feet. Lengths are for the whole link, including the patch cables at each end.

The 2.5 and 5 Gbps speeds come from an Ethernet standard, IEEE 802.3bz, published on October 18, 2016. It was written so that buildings already wired with Cat 5e and Cat 6 could go faster than 1 Gbps without new cable. That is why the 2.5 Gbps port on a current router works over older cable.

Is Cat 5e still good enough?

For most connections, yes. Fluke Networks says Cat 5e and Cat 6 are “both of which are typically able to support up to 1000 Mbps,” and that Cat 5e supports 2.5 Gbps over 100 meters. It adds that Cat 5e can carry 5 Gbps only in “defined use cases.”

So Cat 5e is fine for:

• An internet plan of 1 Gbps or less.
• A router or mesh system with 1 Gbps or 2.5 Gbps ports.
• Wiring mesh units together. Eero, for example, lists Cat 5e, Cat 6 and Cat 6A as suitable cables.

One caution applies to cable bundles. Fluke notes that Cat 5e and Cat 6 were never specified for alien crosstalk, which is interference between neighboring cables, and that it is “a limiting factor” at 2.5 and 5 Gbps. Long runs tightly bundled with other cables are where trouble shows up. A single cable from a router to a nearby device is not that situation.

Don’t rip out working Cat 5e. Replace it when a specific link needs to run faster than it can.

When do I need Cat 6?

Cat 6 is the sensible default for new cables. It supports 5 Gbps over 100 meters. It also carries 10 Gbps over shorter distances: under the industry guidance Fluke cites, 10 Gbps “should operate over channel lengths of up to 37 meters of Category 6 cabling,” and between 37 and 55 meters “depending on the alien crosstalk environment.”

Most runs inside a house are well under 37 meters. That makes Cat 6 a reasonable choice even if you expect to use 10 Gbps equipment later, with one caveat. Fluke says results over Cat 6 at 10 Gbps are unpredictable, with some 60-meter links passing and some 30-meter links failing, because interference varies from one installation to the next.

When is Cat 6A worth it?

When the cable is going somewhere hard to reach again. Cat 6A is the category designed for 10 Gbps, supporting it “up to 100 m (328 ft).”

Buy Cat 6A if:

• You are running cable inside walls, ceilings or between floors, and you want it to last through several generations of equipment.
• You have, or plan to buy, 10 Gbps equipment and a run is longer than about 37 meters.
• Many cables will run bundled together over a long distance.

Cat 6A cable is generally thicker and stiffer than Cat 6, which makes it harder to route around corners. For a short patch cable between a modem and a router, it brings no benefit over Cat 6.

Should I buy Cat 7 or Cat 8?

Cat 8: no. Fluke’s fact sheet says Cat 8 supports 25 and 40 Gbps Ethernet with a “maximum Channel length of 30m (100’)” at those speeds, and that “there is no unshielded variant.” Home routers, mesh systems, consoles and PCs do not have 25 or 40 Gbps copper ports, so a Cat 8 cable in a house runs at whatever lower speed the devices support. Cat 6A does the same job.

Cat 7: also no. Cat 7 is widely sold online, but it is not one of the categories in the US cabling standard. A summary of the current ANSI/TIA-568 standard by cable maker trueCABLE lists Cat 5e, Cat 6, Cat 6A and Cat 8 as the recognized copper categories. A cable labeled Cat 7 with ordinary RJ45 plugs will usually work as an Ethernet cable, but the label is not a rating you can check against that standard. Buy Cat 6 or Cat 6A instead.

Which cable matches my equipment?

Match the cable to the fastest port on the link. The link runs at the speed of its slowest part.

Check the port speeds in your router’s specifications, including the internet (WAN) port. A fast plan and a good cable still stop at 1 Gbps if the port does. If you are wiring a mesh system, see our guide to wired and wireless backhaul, and for sizing the plan itself, how much internet speed you need.

What should I avoid?

Copper-clad aluminum (CCA). Some low-priced cable uses aluminum conductors with a thin copper coating. Fluke Networks says cables with CCA conductors are “non-standards compliant,” because the standards require solid copper, and that they “often do not have a valid UL safety listing.” It also says aluminum’s resistance is “about 55% greater than for a copper cable of the same diameter,” which wastes power as heat when a cable carries Power over Ethernet (PoE), the feature that powers devices such as cameras and access points through the network cable.

Fluke suggests two checks anyone can do: weigh the box against a known copper cable, since aluminum is lighter, or scrape a conductor “to reveal the silver colored aluminum beneath the copper cladding.” Look for “solid copper” or “pure copper” in the listing, and treat a missing answer as a no.

Paying for a category you can’t use. A higher number does not make a connection faster than its ports. Cat 8 on a 1 Gbps port is a 1 Gbps link.

Flat or very thin cables for long runs. These are convenient under rugs and along baseboards, but we could not find them covered by the sources above, so we can’t vouch for their performance at multi-gigabit speeds. For anything long or permanent, use standard round cable from a maker that states the category and conductor material.

Does a better cable speed up my internet?

Only if the cable was the bottleneck. Replacing Cat 5e with Cat 6A on a 500 Mbps plan changes nothing, because Cat 5e already carries more than that.

A damaged or badly made cable is different. A link that should run at 1 Gbps but connects at 100 Mbps can point to a faulty cable or plug, and swapping it is a cheap test. If wired speed is fine and wireless is slow, the cable isn’t the issue; see why Wi-Fi can be slow when your internet is fast.

Fact-check notes

Bottom line

Keep the Cat 5e you have unless a link needs more than 2.5 Gbps. Buy Cat 6 for new patch cables and ordinary runs. Use Cat 6A for wiring that goes inside walls or needs 10 Gbps over a long distance. Leave Cat 7 and Cat 8 on the shelf, and make sure whatever you buy has solid copper conductors.

Short answer: Backhaul is the connection between mesh units. Wired backhaul uses an Ethernet cable, so the units stop spending Wi-Fi capacity talking to each other. Use it wherever you can run a cable; coax outlets with MoCA adapters are an alternative. If you can't wire anything, place units closer together and prefer a system with a third band. This is a research-based guide from manufacturer documentation, not a hands-on test.

Backhaul is the connection between the units of a mesh Wi-Fi system. Wired backhaul means the units are joined by Ethernet cable. Wireless backhaul means they talk to each other over Wi-Fi. If you can run a cable between units, wired backhaul is the better choice. If you can’t, wireless backhaul still works, and placement decides how well.

This is a research-based guide. It draws on the manufacturers’ own setup documentation for five mesh systems. We have not tested these systems ourselves, and the performance statements below are the manufacturers’ claims, labeled as such.

What is backhaul?

A mesh system has a main router, connected to your modem, and one or more extra units placed around the home. Brands call the extra units nodes, satellites or points.

Each unit does two jobs. It talks to your devices, such as phones, laptops and TVs. And it passes their traffic back to the main router. That second link, unit to unit, is the backhaul. When you stream video in a far bedroom, the data goes from the internet to the main router, across the backhaul to the bedroom unit, and then to your TV.

A weak backhaul limits everything behind it. A unit can show full signal bars on your phone and still be slow, because its own link back to the router is poor.

How do wired and wireless backhaul differ?

Wireless backhaul

With wireless backhaul, a unit receives data over Wi-Fi and sends it on over Wi-Fi. That traffic competes for airtime with your devices unless the system keeps it apart.

Some three-band (tri-band) systems reserve one band for backhaul. ASUS’s documentation, for example, says that on its tri-band AiMesh routers the second 5 GHz band is “a dedicated backhaul by default.” A two-band system has no spare band, so backhaul and devices share.

Wi-Fi 7 adds another approach, Multi-Link Operation (MLO), which the Wi-Fi Alliance says lets devices “transmit and receive data simultaneously over multiple links.” Some Wi-Fi 7 mesh systems apply it to the link between units. TP-Link, for example, says its Deco BE85 combines “wired and wireless backhaul with the power of Wi-Fi 7 Multi-Link Operation.” How each brand does this varies, so check the specific model.

Wireless backhaul depends on placement. Each unit needs a strong signal from the unit it connects to, so a unit placed in the dead zone itself has a poor backhaul.

Wired backhaul

With wired backhaul, an Ethernet cable carries the unit-to-unit traffic. TP-Link says of its Deco systems that this gives “lower latency and no bandwidth loss from a wireless hop.” Eero says Ethernet connections “maximize your internet speeds and reduce wireless interference.” Netgear says Ethernet backhaul “can improve your Orbi WiFi system’s performance if your router and satellites are placed very far apart.”

There is a second benefit on some systems. Once the units are cabled, the band that was reserved for backhaul can serve your devices. ASUS says that with its Ethernet Backhaul Mode turned on, that second 5 GHz band “has been opened to end devices.”

Wired backhaul also frees you to place a unit where coverage is needed, such as a detached office or a basement, even if no Wi-Fi signal reaches it.

Can I mix wired and wireless backhaul?

Yes, on the systems we checked. TP-Link says: “You can mix wired and wireless backhaul in the same network.” Eero says units without Ethernet ports “can be part of a mixed network of wired and wireless eeros.”

This makes a partial upgrade worthwhile. Wiring only the unit that serves your home office, or the one farthest from the router, improves that unit and leaves less wireless traffic for the others to share.

How do I set up wired backhaul?

The general steps are the same across brands. Then check the brand-specific rule in the table below.

1. Confirm your units have Ethernet ports. Some don’t. Eero says its Beacons and eero 6 Extenders have no Ethernet ports, and Google says Nest Wifi points “don’t have Ethernet ports and can’t be hardwired.”
2. Update the firmware on every unit. Netgear tells Orbi owners to do this before setting up Ethernet backhaul. ASUS’s Ethernet Backhaul Mode needs firmware version 386 or later.
3. Set the system up wirelessly first, if your brand says so. TP-Link’s instructions are to add all Deco units in the app first, then connect the cables.
4. Run the cable. Connect the main router to each unit, directly or through a switch. Eero specifies Cat5e, Cat6 or Cat6a cable; our Ethernet cable guide explains which to buy.
5. Let the system switch over. On Deco, TP-Link says no extra app configuration is needed, and the Wi-Fi backhaul between cabled units “disconnects automatically.” ASUS has you turn on Ethernet Backhaul Mode, and warns that every node must be cabled first or a node “might lose its uplink connection.”
6. Check the result in the app. Most mesh apps show how each unit is connected. Confirm it says wired or Ethernet before you tidy the cables away.

Cabling layouts

There are three common ways to cable a mesh system. Not every brand documents all three.

• Star. Each unit has its own cable back to the main router.
• Switch. The main router connects to an Ethernet switch, and the units connect to the switch.
• Daisy chain. The router connects to unit one, unit one connects to unit two, and so on.

Google’s rule catches people out. The order has to be modem, then the main Wifi router, then any switch, then the points. A point plugged into equipment that sits ahead of the main router will not join the mesh correctly.

What mistakes should I avoid?

• A slow link in the chain. Wired backhaul is only as fast as its slowest part. Netgear’s Orbi article notes that the Ethernet ports on the models it covers are rated at 1 Gbps and says to use switch ports of 1 Gbps or faster. If your internet plan and mesh units support multi-gigabit speeds, the switch and cables need to as well.
• The wrong switch. A basic unmanaged switch is the safe choice. TP-Link warns that “some switches, mainly the D-Link switches, will not forward packets based on IEEE 1905.1 protocol,” which Deco units rely on to find each other over Ethernet.
• A network loop. A loop forms when there are two cabled paths between the same pieces of equipment. TP-Link’s guidance stresses avoiding loops. Give each unit one cabled path back to the router.
• Assuming it worked. If a cable is damaged or in the wrong port, the system may quietly stay on wireless backhaul. Check the app.

What if I can’t run Ethernet?

Use the coax already in the walls. Our MoCA guide covers this in full. Many US homes have coaxial cable outlets from cable TV. MoCA (Multimedia over Coax Alliance) adapters send network traffic over that cable, with one adapter at the router and one at each mesh unit. The MoCA Alliance says the technology “delivers real world home networking speeds up to 2.5 Gbps.” That figure is the alliance’s own claim; results depend on the adapters and the condition of your wiring. From the mesh system’s point of view, a MoCA link is an Ethernet connection.

Improve the wireless backhaul. If cabling isn’t possible:

• Move units closer to the main router. A unit should sit where the signal from the router is still strong, roughly partway toward the weak area, not inside it.
• Reduce the walls and floors between units. Stairwells and open doorways help.
• If you are buying, a tri-band system leaves more room for backhaul than a dual-band one. Our mesh picks for large houses covers which systems suit wireless-only homes.

If you are not sure a mesh system is what you need, start with Wi-Fi router vs. mesh. And if a far room is still slow after cabling, the cause may be the device or its band, which our slow Wi-Fi checklist helps you find.

Fact-check notes

Bottom line

Backhaul is the part of a mesh system you don’t see, and it sets the limit for every unit beyond the main router. Cable it where you can, even if that is only one unit. Follow your brand’s layout rule, use a plain gigabit or faster switch, and confirm in the app that the units report a wired connection. Where cabling isn’t possible, try coax with MoCA adapters, and failing that, move the units closer together.

Short answer: Most US households are well served by a plan at or a little above the FCC's 100 Mbps download, 20 Mbps upload benchmark. A 4K stream needs 15 to 25 Mbps and a 1080p group video call about 4 Mbps in each direction, so even a busy evening adds up to well under 100 Mbps. Pay for more when you move large files often or several people upload at once.

Most US households need less speed than they are sold. A plan around 100 Mbps download and 20 Mbps upload handles several 4K streams, video calls and online games at the same time. Faster plans are worth it mainly when you download or upload very large files often, or when many people are online at once.

Speed here means megabits per second (Mbps), the unit on every internet plan. Download is data coming to you; upload is data you send. The way to size a plan is to add up what your household does at the same moment, then check the upload number separately.

What does the FCC count as fast enough?

The Federal Communications Commission (FCC) uses 100 Mbps download and 20 Mbps upload as its benchmark for fixed home broadband. It adopted that figure on March 14, 2024, calling it a four-fold increase from the 25/3 Mbps benchmark set in 2015. The FCC’s next report, released on August 14, 2026, kept the 100/20 Mbps benchmark.

The benchmark is a policy yardstick for measuring where broadband is available. It is not a rule about what you must buy, but it is a sensible reference point for a household.

How much speed does each activity use?

These are the service providers’ own recommendations, per stream or per call.

The FCC publishes a more general guide, last reviewed on July 18, 2022. It lists minimum download speeds for one activity at a time:

The FCC says of its own table: “These numbers are rough guidelines and are not based on surveys or experiments conducted by the FCC.” Treat every number here as a floor for one activity, not a guarantee.

Two things stand out. Ordinary online gaming uses very little speed; the FCC lists 4 Mbps. Cloud gaming, where the game runs on a remote server and is streamed to you like video, is the exception. And video calls are the one common activity where upload matters as much as download.

How do I work out what my household needs?

Add up the activities that happen at the same time on your busiest evening, then leave room on top. Here is a worked example using the FCC’s figures, which are the more generous ones.

That busy evening fits inside a 100 Mbps plan with more than a third to spare. Using Netflix’s 15 Mbps figure for 4K, the total falls to 42 Mbps.

The spare room matters because devices also do things you don’t see: phones back up photos, consoles and laptops download updates, and security cameras upload video. This is an estimate built from published minimums, not a measurement of any real home, so round up if you are unsure.

As a starting point, based on that arithmetic:

These ranges are our reading of the figures above. They are not an FCC recommendation. The FCC’s own Household Broadband Guide still describes anything above 25 Mbps as “advanced service,” but that page dates from July 18, 2022, before the benchmark rose to 100/20 Mbps.

Why does upload speed matter?

Upload is what you send: your camera on a video call, files to cloud storage, footage from a security camera, a live stream.

Zoom lists 3.8 Mbps of upload for a 1080p group call. Two people on calls at once need about 7.6 Mbps. That fits within a 20 Mbps upload speed, but it would crowd a plan with 10 Mbps of upload once backups and cameras are added. For the router settings that keep calls steady, see our guide to router settings for Zoom and Teams calls.

Plans are usually named for their download speed, so look for the upload figure too. Some connection types offer upload speeds far lower than their download speeds, while fiber plans often offer the same speed both ways. Our fiber vs. cable vs. 5G home internet guide covers the differences.

When is a faster plan worth paying for?

Mostly when you move large files. A stream uses a fixed amount of data per second, so extra speed does not improve it. A download uses everything available, so extra speed finishes it sooner.

Here is how long a 100 GB download, roughly a large modern game, takes at different speeds. This assumes the full plan speed for the whole download and nothing else using the connection, so real times will be longer.

The math: 100 GB is 800,000 megabits (100 × 1,000 × 8). Divide by the plan speed in Mbps to get seconds.

If you download a game like that once a month, the difference between 300 Mbps and 1 Gbps is about half an hour a month. If you do it weekly, or work with large video files, a faster plan starts to earn its price.

Does more speed fix lag or buffering?

Often not. Three things are commonly mistaken for a slow plan.

• Latency. Lag in games and delays on calls come from latency, the time data takes to make a round trip, measured in milliseconds (ms). NVIDIA, for example, requires less than 80 ms of latency to its data center for GeForce NOW, separately from its speed requirements. A faster plan does not lower latency.
• Wi-Fi. Your plan’s speed is delivered to the modem. The wireless link to each device is separate and often slower. If a laptop plugged into the router gets full speed and your phone doesn’t, the plan is fine. See why Wi-Fi can be slow when your internet is fast.
• An upload queue. One device uploading a large file can make everything else stutter. That is a router traffic problem, which our bufferbloat guide explains.

Before upgrading, run a speed test on a computer connected to the router by Ethernet cable. If the result is close to what you pay for and things still feel slow, more speed is unlikely to help. Our slow Wi-Fi checklist walks through the next steps.

How do I check what a plan really delivers?

Read the plan’s broadband label. The FCC requires internet providers to display these labels at the point of sale, and says they must disclose “broadband prices, introductory rates, data allowances, and broadband speeds.” Most providers had to comply by April 10, 2024, and providers with 100,000 or fewer subscriber lines by October 10, 2024.

On the label, check three things:

1. The speeds listed, for both download and upload. Compare them with your total from the worksheet above.
2. The price after any introductory rate ends. A cheaper plan at a faster speed is not cheaper if the rate rises later.
3. Any data allowance. A household that streams 4K daily can use a lot of data, and a cap changes the value of the plan.

Fact-check notes

Bottom line

Add up what your household does at once, compare it with the plan’s download and upload speeds, and leave some room. For most homes that points to a plan at or a little above 100 Mbps down and 20 Mbps up. Pay for more when large downloads or uploads are a regular part of your week. If things feel slow on a plan that already covers your total, look at Wi-Fi and latency before you look at a bigger plan.

Short answer: Use WPA3 Personal if every device you own can connect with it. If some can't, use the WPA2/WPA3 transitional (mixed) mode. Use WPA2 Personal with AES only when your router offers nothing newer. Avoid WEP, the original WPA and anything labeled TKIP. Whichever mode you use, a long passphrase and current firmware matter as much as the setting.

Use WPA3 Personal if every device in your home can connect with it. If some can’t, use your router’s WPA2/WPA3 transitional mode, which some brands call mixed mode. Use WPA2 Personal with AES only when the router offers nothing newer. Avoid WEP, the original WPA, and any option with TKIP in its name.

WPA stands for Wi-Fi Protected Access. It is the security that scrambles traffic between your devices and your router and decides who is allowed to join. This guide covers the “Personal” versions, the ones that use a shared Wi-Fi password at home. “Enterprise” versions use individual logins and are meant for workplaces.

What is the difference between WPA2 and WPA3?

The main difference is how each one handles your Wi-Fi password when a device joins.

With WPA2 Personal, a device and the router prove they know the password through a four-step exchange. Someone within radio range can record that exchange and then try password guesses against the recording on their own computer, as fast as their hardware allows. Security researchers describe this as a dictionary attack. A short or common password can fall to it.

WPA3 Personal replaces that exchange with one called Simultaneous Authentication of Equals (SAE). The Wi-Fi Alliance, the industry group that certifies Wi-Fi products, introduced WPA3 on June 25, 2018. It says SAE provides “stronger protections for users against password guessing attempts by third parties” and gives more resilient protection “even when users choose passwords that fall short of typical complexity recommendations.”

Protected Management Frames (PMF) guard the control messages that keep a device connected, which the Wi-Fi Alliance describes as protection from eavesdropping and forging.

The Wi-Fi Alliance now states that WPA3 is mandatory for Wi-Fi CERTIFIED devices, so current routers, phones and laptops that carry that certification support it.

Which setting should I choose on my router?

Router menus use different labels, so look for the closest match.

That order follows Apple’s router guidance, dated July 14, 2026, which also says: “Don’t create or join networks that use older, deprecated security protocols.”

The National Security Agency’s home network guidance, published in February 2023, gives the same advice from a different direction. It says to make sure your router “is capable of Wi-Fi Protected Access 3 (WPA3),” and that if you have devices that don’t support WPA3, “you can select WPA2/3 instead.”

Is transitional mode as secure as WPA3 only?

No. It is a compromise, and a reasonable one for most homes.

In transitional mode, the router accepts both WPA2 and WPA3 connections under one network name and one password. Any device that joins with WPA2 gets WPA2’s protection, not WPA3’s. And because the password is shared, a weak password remains exposed to the offline guessing described above through those WPA2 connections.

There is also a known attack on the mode itself. In April 2019, researchers Mathy Vanhoef and Eyal Ronen published a set of WPA3 weaknesses they named Dragonblood. One of them was a downgrade attack: an attacker sets up a fake WPA2-only copy of a network and pushes WPA3-capable devices to try connecting to it, which captures enough to start guessing the password offline. The researchers worked with the Wi-Fi Alliance on fixes, and patches were published. Newer versions of WPA3 include a feature called Transition Disable, which Cisco describes as protection against exactly this kind of downgrade. Whether your router and devices have it depends on their firmware.

What this means in practice:

• If every device you own supports WPA3, choose WPA3 only.
• If you need transitional mode, use a long passphrase. It closes most of the gap.
• Another option is to keep your main network on WPA3 and put older devices on a guest or smart-home network that uses WPA2 with AES. The NSA guidance recommends separating your primary, guest and smart-home networks anyway.

Is WPA2 still safe?

WPA2 Personal with AES is still acceptable when you have no better option. Apple keeps it on its recommended list for that case. Two conditions apply.

Your password has to carry more weight. Because WPA2 allows offline guessing, a short or reused password is the weak point. The NSA guidance says to use “a strong passphrase with a minimum length of twenty characters.” Several unrelated words strung together are easy to type and hard to guess.

Your devices need their updates. In 2017, security researcher Mathy Vanhoef disclosed KRACK, a weakness in WPA2’s four-way handshake. He wrote that the flaw was “in the Wi-Fi standard itself,” so “any correct implementation of WPA2 is likely affected.” It was fixed through software updates to devices and routers. His guidance at the time still stands: changing your Wi-Fi password does not fix it; installing updates does. A phone, laptop or router that stopped receiving updates before 2018 may still be exposed.

WPA3 is not flawless either, as Dragonblood showed. But the researchers who found those flaws wrote that, with vendors mitigating the attacks, WPA3 “will still be an improvement over WPA2.”

Do I need WPA3 for 6 GHz, Wi-Fi 6E and Wi-Fi 7?

Yes, for the 6 GHz band. Cisco’s WPA3 deployment guide, updated October 6, 2025, states that “WPA3 is mandatory for all Wi-Fi 6E devices operating in 6 GHz band” and that “WPA2 is not permitted in 6 GHz operation.” Protected Management Frames are mandatory there too. That guide is written for business networks, but the requirement comes from the Wi-Fi Alliance and applies to home routers as well.

Two practical effects:

• If you own a Wi-Fi 6E or Wi-Fi 7 router and the 6 GHz network doesn’t show up, check that security is set to WPA3 or WPA2/WPA3 transitional. The 6 GHz band can’t run on WPA2 alone.
• Wi-Fi 7’s Multi-Link Operation, which lets a device use more than one band at once, has stricter security requirements still. According to the same Cisco guide, a device that doesn’t meet them can’t connect as MLO-capable.

For what those bands and features do, see our guides to the 2.4, 5 and 6 GHz bands and Wi-Fi 6E versus Wi-Fi 7.

How do I check what I’m using now?

On a Windows 11 PC: open Settings, go to Network & internet, then Wi-Fi, and open your network’s properties. That is where Microsoft points users for connection details; look for the security type in the list. The exact wording can differ between Windows versions.

On the router: open the router’s app or admin page and look under wireless or Wi-Fi settings for “Security,” “Authentication” or “Encryption.” This is also where you change it. Menu names vary by brand.

How do I switch to WPA3 without breaking things?

1. Update the router’s firmware first. WPA3 support and its fixes arrive through firmware.
2. Choose WPA2/WPA3 transitional mode and save. Most devices reconnect on their own.
3. Check your older devices. Printers, smart plugs, older TVs and game consoles are the usual holdouts. If something can’t reconnect, “forget” the network on that device and join again.
4. Set a long passphrase while you are in the menu, if yours is short. You will have to re-enter it on every device, so do this once.
5. Move to WPA3 only later, once everything has connected reliably for a few weeks and you have confirmed each device supports it. If a device drops off, go back to transitional mode.

If a device can’t connect in transitional mode either, it likely needs an old protocol such as WPA with TKIP. Don’t lower the whole network’s security for it. Put it on a separate guest network, or replace it.

Security mode is one setting among several. Our router hardening checklist covers the admin password, automatic updates, WPS and remote management.

Fact-check notes

Bottom line

WPA3 Personal is the right setting when all your devices support it, and WPA2/WPA3 transitional mode is the right setting when they don’t. Plain WPA2 with AES is a fallback, and it leans hard on a long password and updated devices. If you use the 6 GHz band, WPA3 is not optional. Pick the strongest mode your devices can all join, set a passphrase of 20 characters or more, and keep the router’s firmware current.

Short answer: Buy Wi-Fi 7 if you are replacing a router anyway and own, or will soon own, Wi-Fi 7 devices. Keep a working Wi-Fi 6E router: it already uses the 6 GHz band, and Wi-Fi 7's additions only help devices that support them. Check the band list before buying, because some Wi-Fi 7 routers leave out 6 GHz. This is a research-based comparison from standards documents and manufacturer specifications, not a hands-on test.

If you are replacing a router anyway, buy Wi-Fi 7, provided the model you choose has the 6 GHz band. If you already own a Wi-Fi 6E router that works, keep it. Wi-Fi 6E opened the 6 GHz band to home Wi-Fi, and that was the bigger change. Wi-Fi 7 builds on the same band with wider channels and a way to use more than one band at once, and those additions only help devices that are also Wi-Fi 7.

This is a research-based comparison. It draws on the IEEE standard, Wi-Fi Alliance certification documents and manufacturer specifications. We have not tested these routers ourselves, and where we quote measured speeds, they come from a named third party.

What is the difference between Wi-Fi 6E and Wi-Fi 7?

Wi-Fi 6E is Wi-Fi 6 extended into the 6 GHz band. The Wi-Fi Alliance, the industry group that certifies Wi-Fi products, opened its Wi-Fi 6E certification program on January 7, 2021. The underlying technology is the same as Wi-Fi 6 (see Wi-Fi 6 vs. Wi-Fi 6E): channels up to 160 MHz wide and a data-encoding scheme called 1024 QAM. What changed was the extra spectrum.

Wi-Fi 7 is the consumer name for IEEE 802.11be. The Wi-Fi Alliance began certifying Wi-Fi 7 products on January 8, 2024. The IEEE approved the standard on September 26, 2024 and published it on July 22, 2025. It works on the 2.4 GHz, 5 GHz and 6 GHz bands and adds new features on top.

The last row is a theoretical radio rate between a laptop and a router under ideal conditions. Intel’s own footnote estimates over-the-air speed at about 5.19 Gbps, and real homes deliver less. It is not your internet speed.

What does Wi-Fi 7 add?

320 MHz channels

A wider channel carries more data at once. The Wi-Fi Alliance describes Wi-Fi 7’s 320 MHz channels as double the previous widest channel size, and says they are available in countries that have opened the 6 GHz band to Wi-Fi. The United States has: an FCC rule that took effect on July 27, 2020 made about 1,200 MHz of 6 GHz spectrum available for unlicensed use.

Two limits follow. A 320 MHz channel only exists on 6 GHz, so a Wi-Fi 7 router without a 6 GHz radio can’t offer one. And 1,200 MHz has room for three 320 MHz channels (1,200 ÷ 320 = 3.75), so in a dense apartment building neighbors may end up sharing them.

Multi-Link Operation (MLO)

Before Wi-Fi 7, a device connected to one band at a time. The Wi-Fi Alliance says MLO “allows devices to transmit and receive data simultaneously over multiple links for increased throughput, reduced latency, and improved reliability.”

How much MLO helps depends on how the router and the device each implement it, and both must support it. We have not measured MLO ourselves, so treat the benefit as a stated design goal and not a guaranteed result.

4K QAM

QAM is the method Wi-Fi uses to encode data onto a radio signal. The Wi-Fi Alliance says 4K QAM achieves 20% higher transmission rates than the 1024 QAM used by Wi-Fi 6 and 6E. Denser encoding needs a strong, clean signal, so this is a short-range benefit.

What the 30 Gbps figure means

You may see Wi-Fi 7 described as a 30 Gbps or faster standard. The IEEE standard does specify at least one mode capable of a maximum throughput of at least 30 Gbit/s. That is a ceiling for the standard as a whole, using more antennas and more spectrum than any phone or laptop has. The Intel figures in the table above are the realistic ceiling for a laptop.

Do all Wi-Fi 7 routers have 6 GHz?

No, and this is the most important thing to check. A router can be sold as Wi-Fi 7 without a 6 GHz radio. TP-Link’s Archer BE230, for example, is sold as a dual-band Wi-Fi 7 router with 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz radios. It supports MLO and 4K QAM, but with no 6 GHz radio it has no 320 MHz channels.

Every Wi-Fi 6E router has 6 GHz. So a tri-band Wi-Fi 6E router can give a 6 GHz phone or laptop a band that a dual-band Wi-Fi 7 router can’t. If 6 GHz matters to you, look for “tri-band” or “6 GHz” on the box, not only the Wi-Fi 7 logo. Our guide to the 2.4, 5 and 6 GHz bands explains what each band is good at.

Which of my devices can use Wi-Fi 7?

Wi-Fi 7 features work only when the router and the device both support them. Older devices still connect to a Wi-Fi 7 router, because the IEEE standard keeps compatibility with earlier devices on all three bands. They just connect at their own generation’s capability.

• Windows PCs: Microsoft says Wi-Fi 7 is available starting with Windows 11, version 24H2, and requires a Wi-Fi 7 router and a Wi-Fi 7 network adapter. To check the adapter, open Command Prompt or Terminal, run netsh wlan show drivers, and look for 802.11be under “Radio types supported.”
• Apple devices: Apple lists the devices that can join Wi-Fi 6E or Wi-Fi 7 networks, starting with iPhone 15 Pro and iPhone 15 Pro Max (it excludes iPhone 15, iPhone 15 Plus, iPhone 16e and iPhone 17e) and Mac models from 2023, such as MacBook Pro, or 2024 for MacBook Air. Apple’s page, dated August 25, 2026, covers both generations together, so check your specific model’s technical specifications to see which one it supports.
• Everything else: look for “Wi-Fi 7” or “802.11be” in the device’s specifications. If it says Wi-Fi 6E or 802.11ax, the device will not use 320 MHz channels, MLO or 4K QAM.

One setting matters on both generations. Cisco’s WPA3 documentation states that WPA3 security is mandatory on the 6 GHz band and that WPA2 is not permitted there. It also says a device can connect with MLO only if it meets Wi-Fi 7’s stricter security requirements. In practice, set the router to WPA3, or to a WPA2/WPA3 transitional mode if you have older devices. See our WPA2 vs. WPA3 guide.

Will Wi-Fi 7 make my internet faster?

Only if Wi-Fi is the bottleneck today. Your internet plan sets the speed arriving at the modem. Wi-Fi is a separate link from the router to each device. A Wi-Fi 7 link that can carry 2 Gbps does not turn a 500 Mbps plan into a faster one.

Three things have to line up before Wi-Fi 7 changes what you see:

1. A plan or local network faster than your current Wi-Fi. That means a multi-gigabit internet plan, or large file transfers between devices in your home.
2. Ports that match. A router with a 1 Gbps internet (WAN) port can’t pass more than 1 Gbps from the modem, whatever the Wi-Fi can do. Check the WAN and LAN port speeds in the specifications.
3. A Wi-Fi 7 device, reasonably close. Distance still costs speed. Tom’s Guide tested nine Wi-Fi 7 routers and mesh kits in a 3,500-square-foot, multi-floor home (results last updated August 26, 2026). At 15 feet they measured between 864.6 Mbps and 2.62 Gbps. At 90 feet the same products measured between 15.5 and 373.2 Mbps. Those are Tom’s Guide’s results, not ours, but they show that a newer generation does not fix a far room.

If your problem is a dead zone, a Wi-Fi 7 logo is not the fix. Start with whether you need a single router or a mesh system.

Which should you buy?

We have left prices out on purpose. Router prices change week to week, and we only publish a price with the date we checked it.

What about Wi-Fi 8?

Wi-Fi 8 is still a draft standard, and as of October 3, 2026 no Wi-Fi 8 router had a confirmed US price or on-sale date. It is not a reason to delay a purchase you need now. We covered the details in Wi-Fi 8 routers are here, but not in the US.

Fact-check notes

Bottom line

Wi-Fi 6E and Wi-Fi 7 share the feature that matters most to a crowded home: the 6 GHz band. Wi-Fi 7 adds wider channels, MLO and denser encoding, and those reach you only through Wi-Fi 7 devices, at short range, on a connection fast enough to show it. Keep a healthy Wi-Fi 6E router. If you are buying new, a tri-band Wi-Fi 7 router is the sensible pick, as long as you confirm it has 6 GHz and ports that match your plan.

Short answer: Your plan's speed applies at the modem; Wi-Fi is a separate wireless link to each device and is often much slower. Plug a laptop into the router: if that matches your plan, the slowdown is in the wireless path, usually distance, band, interference or one device.

Your internet plan’s speed applies at the modem. Wi-Fi is a separate wireless link between your router and each device, and that link has its own limits: distance, walls, the band it uses, interference, and what the device itself can do. That’s why a speed test on a laptop plugged into the router can look great while your phone crawls in the bedroom.

The good news is that this split also tells you where to look. Your provider is off the hook; the problem is somewhere between the router and the device.

How do I confirm it’s Wi-Fi and not my internet?

Plug a laptop into the router with an Ethernet cable and run a speed test. The FCC says a direct Ethernet connection gives the highest speeds. Verizon’s speed-test guidance suggests disconnecting any VPN and pausing streaming apps so the result is clean.

If the wired result is close to your plan, your internet is fine. Then run the same test over Wi-Fi next to the router, and again in the slow room. The size of the gap is your clue.

Say you pay for 500 Mbps. A wired laptop gets 480. Your phone gets 60 in the bedroom two walls away. The internet is fine; the phone’s wireless link is the weak point.

What actually slows Wi-Fi down?

Distance and walls

Signal weakens with distance and with each wall or floor it crosses. Brick, concrete, metal and large appliances are the worst. The FCC recommends putting the router in a central location. In Tom’s Guide’s September 2026 tests, mesh kits that managed 1.4 to 1.9 Gbps at 15 feet fell to between 20.8 and 150.1 Mbps at 90 feet in a brick, multi-story home.

The wrong band

The FCC says 2.4 GHz is also used by many household devices, so it can be crowded. The 5 GHz band offers faster speeds and may be less crowded by neighbors’ networks, though it doesn’t carry as far. A phone sitting on 2.4 GHz in a room with a clear 5 GHz signal is a common cause of “slow Wi-Fi, fast internet.”

The device itself

Older phones, laptops and smart TVs have slower Wi-Fi radios. A device that supports only an older Wi-Fi standard can’t use the speed a newer router offers, however fast your plan is. This is why one device can be slow while others are fine.

Neighbors and interference

If your router’s Wi-Fi settings show a long list of nearby networks, the FCC says their signals could affect your performance. In apartment buildings, that often shows up in the evening.

Too many devices at once

The FCC notes that when many wireless devices share a Wi-Fi network, it can affect performance. A few video calls, a game download and several 4K streams can saturate the wireless side even when the internet connection has room.

The router

An older router, one with outdated firmware, or one tucked in a cabinet can be the bottleneck. Apple recommends setting routers to install firmware updates automatically. If you use a combined modem-router from your provider and it’s several years old, it may be a limiting factor too.

Settings

Apple recommends using one network name across all bands, leaving the channel on automatic, and setting the radio mode to allow all Wi-Fi versions (it lists “All” as preferred) so each device can connect at the fastest mode it supports. Apple also suggests a 20 MHz channel width for 2.4 GHz. A router that was set to an older, restricted mode can hold back newer devices.

How can I see what my device is actually connected to?

Look at the device’s Wi-Fi details. Menu names vary by version, so treat these as starting points.

• Windows: open Settings, go to Network & internet, then Wi-Fi, and open your network’s properties. It lists the network band, the Wi-Fi protocol and the link speed.
• Mac: hold the Option key and click the Wi-Fi icon in the menu bar. It shows the channel, the Wi-Fi mode and the transmit rate.
• Phones: iPhone and Android screens differ by model. If a phone isn’t giving details, a free Wi-Fi analyzer app can show the band and signal strength.

Two things to look for. First, is the device on 2.4 GHz when 5 GHz is available? Second, is the Wi-Fi mode an older one? The link speed shown is the maximum the radio link is currently negotiating, and real download speeds are typically lower, so don’t expect to see your full plan speed there.

What should I do about it?

Work from the cheapest fix up:

1. Move closer, or move the router. If speed jumps near the router, it’s coverage.
2. Move the slow device to 5 GHz. Forget the network and rejoin, or move closer so it chooses 5 GHz.
3. Update the device and the router. Both matter.
4. Check what else is using the network and pause big downloads.
5. Wire what stays put. TVs, consoles and desktops are better on Ethernet.
6. Add coverage. If the far room is simply too far, a mesh node placed halfway between the router and that room usually works better than one placed in the room itself. See our router-versus-mesh guide.
7. Replace the router only after the above. An old router that no longer gets updates, or one that’s slow even beside it, is a fair candidate.

What this means for you

If only one device is slow, fix that device first. If every device is slow in the same room, it’s coverage. If everything is slow, even next to the router, look at the router, its settings and your neighbors’ networks.

A faster internet plan won’t help a Wi-Fi problem. Fix the wireless link before you pay for more speed. To check whether your plan is big enough in the first place, see how much internet speed you need.

Bottom line

Fast internet and slow Wi-Fi aren’t a contradiction. They’re two different links. A cable test splits them apart, and the device’s own Wi-Fi details show what’s really happening on the wireless side.

Short answer: As of October 3, 2026, no Wi-Fi 8 router has a confirmed US price or on-sale date. TP-Link's Archer 8 Ultra is on pre-order in the UK, Germany, Australia and Canada, and TP-Link is not on the FCC's list of router makers cleared to get new models authorized. ASUS is on that list and says US launch details will follow. Wi-Fi 8 is still a draft standard aimed at reliability, not higher top speed, so most US households lose nothing by waiting.

Two companies now sell Wi-Fi 8 routers, and neither sells one in the United States yet. TP-Link opened pre-orders for its Archer 8 Ultra on September 30, 2026 in the UK, Germany, Australia and Canada. ASUS put its ROG Rapture GT-BN98 on sale in Canada on September 4, 2026. As of October 3, 2026, neither company has announced a US on-sale date or a US price.

For US buyers there are two separate questions. The first is regulatory: which companies are allowed to bring a new router model to the US at all. The second is practical: whether a router built on a draft standard is worth buying when it does arrive.

This article is research-based. WiFi Weekly has not tested any Wi-Fi 8 router. Specifications and performance figures below are manufacturer claims and are labeled as such.

What has been announced so far?

Sources: TP-Link press release (September 30, 2026), ASUS press release (September 4, 2026), FCC Covered List page (updated October 2, 2026).

The speed figures add up the maximum link rate of every band. No single phone or laptop connects at that rate. TP-Link’s own footnote says its figures are maximum “up to” values from internal testing under controlled conditions and that actual performance varies.

Neither press release lists a price. TechRadar reported a UK pre-order price of £669.99 on September 30, 2026, which it said would later rise to £899.99, and an Australian price of AU$1,499.99. UK and Australian shelf prices normally include sales tax, so they don’t convert directly into a US price.

Why can’t US buyers order one?

On March 23, 2026, the Federal Communications Commission (FCC) added “routers produced in a foreign country” to its Covered List. The Covered List is the FCC’s list of equipment considered a national security risk. Equipment on it cannot receive FCC equipment authorization, and most electronic devices need that authorization before they can be imported or sold in the US.

The FCC’s own guidance spells out what that means:

• New models of foreign-produced consumer routers cannot be authorized, so they cannot be imported or sold in the US, unless they have a Conditional Approval.
• Models authorized before the rule can still be imported, sold and used.
• Routers you already own are unaffected. The FCC says consumers “do not need to do anything.”

“Produced in a foreign country” is broad. The FCC says it covers any major stage of production, including manufacturing, assembly, design and development, and that the nationality of the company does not matter. A router designed in the US and built overseas is covered.

A Conditional Approval is the exemption. It comes from the Department of War or the Department of Homeland Security, and the FCC publishes each one. The FCC’s list was last updated on October 2, 2026. For the brands most US shoppers know, it shows:

Source: FCC Covered List page, Conditional Approvals tab, updated October 2, 2026. The full list has more than 20 router entries, most of them equipment supplied through internet providers.

Two limits on what this table tells you:

1. A Conditional Approval is not a product launch. It lets a company apply for FCC equipment authorization for new models during the window. ASUS’s approval names the ROG GT and ZenWiFi Mesh series, and its announced Wi-Fi 8 models (ROG Rapture GT-BN98, ZenWiFi BN12) carry those family names. ASUS has not announced a US date.
2. TP-Link’s absence from the list is the only thing the FCC record shows. It does not say whether TP-Link has applied or what the status of any application is. TP-Link has not given a reason for the missing US date in its press releases.

The same FCC list also shows Wi-Fi 8 equipment from companies that mainly supply internet providers: a Nokia Wi-Fi 8 router (approved May 15, 2026) and two Askey Wi-Fi 8 gateways (approved July 24, 2026). So the first Wi-Fi 8 box in some US homes may come from an ISP, not a store shelf. No ISP launch date is given in the FCC record.

We covered the rule’s effect on current models in our large-house router guide.

Can I just import one?

The FCC’s guidance addresses this directly. For covered routers that have not received FCC equipment authorization, it says “the general answer is ’no’” to using them in the US. Routers that already carry an FCC ID are not restricted, wherever you bought them.

There are practical problems too. A router sold for another country is set up for that country’s radio rules, and you would be relying on overseas warranty support. We don’t recommend it.

What does Wi-Fi 8 change?

Wi-Fi 8 is the marketing name for IEEE 802.11bn, a standard still being written by the Institute of Electrical and Electronics Engineers (IEEE). The project’s formal title is “Enhancements for Ultra High Reliability,” and that is the point of it.

The IEEE project document sets three targets, each compared with Wi-Fi 7. The standard must include at least one mode that can:

• increase throughput by 25%,
• reduce latency by 25% at the 95th percentile, meaning the slow moments, not the average,
• reduce lost data packets by 25%.

These are design targets under conditions the project defines. They are not promised results in your house.

What Wi-Fi 8 does not do is raise the top speed. According to MediaTek figures reported by PCWorld in December 2024, Wi-Fi 8 keeps the same maximum channel width (320 MHz), the same modulation and the same three bands (2.4, 5 and 6 GHz) as Wi-Fi 7, for the same theoretical peak rate. Those figures describe a draft and could change before the standard is final.

The new features are about how routers behave when conditions are bad: several access points coordinating so they don’t talk over each other, better performance at the edge of coverage, and smoother handoff as you move between mesh units. That makes Wi-Fi 8 more relevant to mesh systems and crowded apartment buildings than to a single router in a small home.

How finished is the standard?

It is a draft. The IEEE task group’s status page lists the second draft (D2.0) as complete and projects final approval by the IEEE Standards Board in May 2028. That date is a projection, and standards schedules can slip.

Routers shipping now are built to the draft. TP-Link’s September 30 release splits the Archer 8 Ultra’s Wi-Fi 8 features into two groups:

• At launch: UEQM, new MCS rates, 2×LDPC and NPCA (features aimed at steadier links and getting around busy channels).
• Later, by firmware update: DSO, ELR, DRU, Co-TDMA, Co-SR and Co-BF. This group includes the coordination features that most define Wi-Fi 8. TP-Link gives no date for the update.

There is also no certification program yet. The Wi-Fi Alliance, the industry group that tests products for interoperability, has not launched one for Wi-Fi 8. Industry outlet Wi-Fi NOW reported in June 2026 that the program is expected to launch in January 2028. Until then, a “Wi-Fi 8” label is the manufacturer’s own claim.

Should you wait, or buy Wi-Fi 7 or Wi-Fi 6E now?

There is nothing to decide between today in the US, because there is no Wi-Fi 8 router to buy. The useful question is whether to delay a purchase you were already planning.

One more reason not to hurry: a router’s new features only help devices that support them. TechRadar reported on September 30, 2026 that Wi-Fi 8 phones and laptops are not expected until 2027. ASUS says its Wi-Fi 8 router delivers “measurable performance gains” with Wi-Fi 7 devices. That is a manufacturer claim that we have not tested and have not seen independently measured.

If coverage is the real problem, start with whether you need a router or a mesh system, and run through our slow Wi-Fi checklist before spending anything.

Fact-check notes

Update, October 12, 2026

Five US states have now sued TP-Link over its security and China-ties claims, and TP-Link was still not on the FCC’s router Conditional Approval list as of its October 9 update. See TP-Link sued by five states: what it means if you own one.

Bottom line

Wi-Fi 8 routers exist, but not for US shoppers yet. Based on the FCC’s list as of October 2, 2026, ASUS is cleared to seek authorization for new models and TP-Link is not on the list. Even when a US launch comes, you would be buying a draft-standard router whose main features arrive later and whose benefits depend on devices that aren’t on sale. If your network needs help today, fix placement and coverage with current gear. We’ll update this article when a US price and date are announced.

Short answer: Start with a wired speed test. If a laptop plugged into the router is also slow, the problem is your plan, modem or ISP; if it's fast, the fix is usually router placement, the Wi-Fi band, interference or a single device. All of those are free to check before you buy anything.

Start with a wired speed test: plug a laptop into your router with an Ethernet cable and run a speed test. If that result is far below your plan, the problem is your modem, plan or provider. If it’s fine and Wi-Fi is slow, the problem is in the wireless path, and the steps below will find it without spending money.

The order matters. Most “slow Wi-Fi” advice jumps straight to buying hardware. This sequence tells you whether you need any.

How do I find out where the slowdown is?

1. Run a wired test

Connect a laptop to the router with an Ethernet cable. The FCC says a direct Ethernet connection gives the highest speeds and avoids Wi-Fi congestion, which makes it the best baseline.

For a clean result, Verizon’s speed-test guidance suggests disconnecting any VPN and pausing video or music streaming during the test. Run it two or three times, since a single result can be off.

Compare the number to your plan. If it’s close, your internet service is working. If it’s well below, restart the modem (step 5), check whether your provider has an outage, and then contact them.

2. Test Wi-Fi next to the router, then in the problem room

Run the same test on Wi-Fi standing near the router, then in the room where it’s slow. The gap tells you what you’re dealing with:

3. Check whether it’s one device or all of them

If every device slows down at the same time, the problem is upstream of any one device: the router, modem or provider. If only one phone or laptop is affected, start with that device.

4. Check how many things are using the connection

Cloud backups, game downloads, 4K streams and security cameras all share your connection. The FCC notes that when multiple wireless devices use the same Wi-Fi network, performance can suffer. Pause big downloads and test again.

5. Restart in the right order

Unplug the router and the modem. Plug the modem in first, wait for its lights to settle, then plug the router back in. Microsoft’s support guidance notes that the lights tell you when each device is ready. If the modem’s lights stay on after you unplug it, it may have a backup battery you need to remove.

A restart is a diagnostic, not a cure. If you need one every few days, something else is wrong, and the steps below are where to look.

6. Move the router

The FCC recommends putting the router in a central location. Get it out of cabinets, off the floor and away from large metal objects and thick walls. A router in a corner of the house spends half its signal on the yard.

7. Check which Wi-Fi band you’re using

The FCC says 2.4 GHz is also used by many household devices, while 5 GHz offers faster speeds and may be less crowded by neighboring networks. The trade-off is that 5 GHz doesn’t reach as far through walls.

Apple recommends giving every band the same network name so devices can choose, and notes that if you split them into separate names, devices may not connect reliably. If a device keeps landing on 2.4 GHz, check its Wi-Fi details (see our guide on Wi-Fi that’s slow when the internet is fast).

8. Leave the channel on automatic, then check neighbors

Apple recommends letting the router pick the Wi-Fi channel automatically, since it will select the best one for you. The FCC notes that if your router’s Wi-Fi settings show many other networks nearby, your performance could be affected by them. In a crowded apartment building, that’s often the cause of evening slowdowns.

9. Update the router’s firmware

Apple recommends setting routers and access points to install updates automatically. Updates can fix stability and performance bugs and close security holes. If your router is older and no longer gets updates, that’s a real reason to consider replacing it.

10. Wire the devices that stay put

A TV, game console or desktop doesn’t need Wi-Fi. Running Ethernet to it frees up wireless capacity for phones and laptops. If you can’t run cable, the FCC says adapters are another route.

When should I replace my router or call my provider?

Call your provider when the wired test is slow, when the modem’s lights show a problem, or when many devices are slow at once and a restart doesn’t help.

Consider new equipment only when your wired speed is good, the router is well placed and updated, and Wi-Fi is still weak in parts of the house. At that point, the question is coverage, and our router-versus-mesh guide covers it. Also consider replacement if the router no longer receives firmware updates.

What this means for you

Say you pay for 500 Mbps. A wired laptop tests at 480 Mbps, but your phone in the upstairs bedroom gets 40 Mbps. Your internet is fine. The phone is a few walls and a floor away from the router, possibly stuck on 2.4 GHz. Moving the router or adding a node halfway is the fix. A new, faster plan would change nothing.

Bottom line

Test with a cable first, then work from the cheapest fixes to the most expensive: restart, move, check the band, update, wire what you can. Most slow Wi-Fi gets better before you reach the buy-new-gear step.

Short answer: Use 5 GHz for most phones, laptops and TVs. Use 6 GHz for newer devices that are close to the router. Leave 2.4 GHz for far rooms and for smart-home devices that support nothing else. In most homes the best setup is one network name for all bands, so each device picks for itself.

Most devices should be on 5 GHz. Use 6 GHz for newer devices that sit close to the router, and leave 2.4 GHz for far rooms and for smart-home devices that support nothing else. If your router uses one network name for all its bands, your devices are already making this choice, and for most homes that is the right setup.

The rest of this guide explains why the bands behave differently, which devices can use each one, and which router settings are worth changing. It covers the rules that apply in the United States; channel availability differs in other countries.

What is a Wi-Fi band?

A band is a range of radio frequencies. Wi-Fi uses three of them, and a router has a separate radio for each band it supports. The band is not the same thing as the Wi-Fi generation:

Not every router of a given generation has every band. Some Wi-Fi 7 routers are dual-band and leave out 6 GHz, so check the box for the words “tri-band” or “6 GHz.”

How do the three bands compare?

Sources: 47 CFR 15.247 and 15.407 for frequency ranges; Netgear Support for relative coverage, speed and household interference. “Coverage” and “speed” are general rankings, not measurements from our own testing.

The pattern is a trade. Lower frequencies carry farther and pass through walls more easily. Higher frequencies have more spectrum available, which allows wider channels, and wider channels carry more data.

When is 2.4 GHz the right choice?

The 2.4 GHz band is 83.5 MHz wide in the US. That is small. A standard Wi-Fi channel is 20 MHz wide, and network engineers have long worked with only three channels that don’t overlap each other: 1, 6 and 11. In an apartment building, every neighbor’s router is sharing those three channels with yours.

The band is also used by other things. Netgear’s support documentation lists microwave ovens and garage door openers among the household devices on 2.4 GHz.

Use it when:

• The device is far from the router. A weak 5 GHz signal can be worse than a moderate 2.4 GHz signal.
• The device supports nothing else. Some smart plugs, bulbs, cameras and older printers have a 2.4 GHz radio only. Check the product’s spec sheet.
• The device needs very little data. A thermostat or a doorbell sensor does not need a fast link.

Apple recommends setting the 2.4 GHz channel width to 20 MHz. A 40 MHz channel would take up about half of the 83.5 MHz band, which makes interference with neighbors more likely.

When is 5 GHz the right choice?

For most devices, most of the time. The 5 GHz band has far more spectrum than 2.4 GHz, which means more channels, wider channels and fewer neighbors on the same one. The FCC’s home network tips, published in March 2020, advised switching the devices you depend on for work or school to the 5 GHz network where possible.

Two things to know:

It doesn’t reach as far. A 5 GHz signal loses more strength through walls and floors than a 2.4 GHz signal does. If a device two floors from the router keeps dropping, this is often why.

Some channels are shared with radar. FCC rules require Wi-Fi equipment using the 5.25 to 5.35 GHz and 5.47 to 5.725 GHz ranges to detect radar and avoid it, a feature called Dynamic Frequency Selection (DFS). On those channels a router has to listen for radar and move if it hears any. This is normal behavior and a good reason to leave channel selection on automatic.

When is 6 GHz the right choice?

The 6 GHz band is the newest and by far the largest. The FCC opened 1,200 MHz of it, from 5.925 to 7.125 GHz, to unlicensed use in rules adopted on April 23, 2020 that took effect on July 27, 2020. Cisco describes that as more than twice the Wi-Fi bandwidth of the 5 GHz band.

That room is what makes it fast. The Wi-Fi Alliance says the band has space for up to seven 160 MHz channels. Wi-Fi 7 adds 320 MHz channels, and three of those fit in 1,200 MHz (1,200 ÷ 320 = 3.75, so three that don’t overlap). For the buying decision, see Wi-Fi 6E vs. Wi-Fi 7.

It is also uncrowded for a simple reason: only Wi-Fi 6E and newer devices are allowed there. There are no old, slow devices taking up airtime.

The limits:

• Shortest reach. Netgear ranks 6 GHz as providing the least coverage of the three bands. Part of the reason is regulatory. FCC rules cap the power density of indoor 6 GHz access points at 5 dBm per MHz, and client devices such as phones at −1 dBm per MHz. Expect 6 GHz to be most useful close to the router.
• Device support. Your device needs a Wi-Fi 6E or Wi-Fi 7 radio. Apple’s list, for example, starts at iPhone 15 Pro, MacBook Pro models from 2023 and MacBook Air models from 2024. Check your own device’s specifications.
• Newer security. Cisco notes that the Wi-Fi Alliance made WPA3 security mandatory for Wi-Fi 6E devices. If your router’s 6 GHz network isn’t appearing, check that WPA3 is enabled. See WPA2 vs. WPA3.

Some mesh systems use 6 GHz in a second way: as the wireless link between units. Our mesh guide for large houses covers that.

Which band should each device use?

These are starting points. If a device is on the “right” band and still slow, the band isn’t your problem; work through our slow Wi-Fi checklist instead.

Should the bands share one network name?

In most homes, yes. Apple’s router guidance recommends a single network name (SSID) across all bands, and says its devices perform best on Wi-Fi 6E and Wi-Fi 7 networks when the 2.4, 5 and 6 GHz bands share one name. With one name, each device picks a band and can change as you move around.

Separate names make sense in two cases:

1. Setting up a 2.4 GHz-only smart device. Some setup apps can fail when the phone is on 5 GHz. A temporary 2.4 GHz-only name, or a router’s “IoT network” option, gets around that. Our step-by-step guide for 2.4 GHz smart devices covers each router brand.
2. Troubleshooting. Forcing a device onto one band is a quick way to test whether the band is the cause of a problem.

If you do split them, expect to manage the choice yourself. A phone that joined the 2.4 GHz name will stay on it even when it is standing next to the router.

Which router settings are worth changing?

Apple publishes a list of recommended router settings that works well as a general baseline. The band-related ones:

Source: Apple Support, “Recommended settings for Wi-Fi routers and access points,” published July 14, 2026. Menu names vary by router brand.

How do I check which band a device is using?

• Mac: Hold the Option key and click the Wi-Fi icon in the menu bar. The channel line shows the band.
• Windows: Settings, then Network & internet, then Wi-Fi, then the properties for your network. Look for “Network band.”
• Android: Settings, then Wi-Fi, then tap the connected network. Most phones show the frequency.
• Any device, including iPhone and iPad: Your router’s app usually lists each connected device with its band.

Exact menu names change between software versions.

Bottom line

Let your devices choose by using one network name, keep 2.4 GHz narrow at 20 MHz, and leave channels on automatic. Expect 6 GHz to help only newer devices near the router, and expect 2.4 GHz to be slow but dependable at a distance. If one band is weak across much of the house, the problem is coverage, and our router-versus-mesh guide is the next step.

Short answer: You need mesh if a router placed in a central spot still can't reach the whole house. In a smaller, one-story or open-plan home, one router is cheaper, simpler and usually enough, and there are free fixes to try before you spend anything.

You need mesh if your router can’t cover the whole house even after you’ve put it in a central spot. In a smaller one-story or open-plan home, a single router is cheaper, simpler and usually enough. Mesh earns its price in multi-story houses, big or oddly shaped homes, and homes with thick walls.

The catch is that many people buy mesh before testing whether a cheaper fix works. This guide helps you decide which one you need, and what to try first.

What is the actual difference between a router and mesh?

A router is one box that broadcasts Wi-Fi from one spot. Signal fades with distance and with every wall and floor in the way.

A mesh system is a main unit plus one or more nodes that act as one network. Your phone connects to the closest one, and Tom’s Guide notes the system hands your connection off automatically as you move around the house. There’s one network name and no manual switching.

A Wi-Fi extender is a third option. It picks up your router’s signal and rebroadcasts it. Tom’s Guide says most extenders create a separate network you have to switch to, and they’re less capable than mesh satellites. One reviewer of ASUS’s ZenWiFi BT10 noted that old-style repeaters suffered a severe drop in bandwidth because they used the same radio to talk to the router and to your devices. Mesh systems with a dedicated link, or an Ethernet cable between units, avoid that.

How do I tell which one my house needs?

Start with a test, not a purchase. Run a speed test next to the router, then in the room with the worst signal. The FCC suggests checking your speed first and notes that Wi-Fi performance depends on where the router sits and how many devices share it.

Then use these rough guides:

• Small or medium, one floor, fairly open: a single router, placed near the middle.
• About 3,000 sq ft or more: Tom’s Guide says a regular router won’t cut it at that size. For comparison, TP-Link rates a single Deco BE63 unit at 2,500 sq ft. These are rough guides, not rules.
• Two or more floors, or an odd layout: mesh is likely worth it. Tom’s Guide says multi-story and oddly laid-out homes don’t match the coverage pattern a standalone router delivers.
• One stubborn dead spot and nothing else: try cheaper fixes first, below.

Construction matters too. Brick, concrete and metal block Wi-Fi far more than drywall does, so a 2,000 sq ft home with masonry walls can need mesh while a 3,000 sq ft open house might not.

How far does Wi-Fi really reach?

Tom’s Guide tested several mesh kits in a multi-story home with brick walls. Its September 7, 2026 roundup shows how steeply speed falls with distance. At 15 feet, the kits it tested ranged from about 1.4 to 1.9 Gbps. At 90 feet, they ranged from 20.8 Mbps (eero Pro 7) to 150.1 Mbps (TP-Link Deco BE23). That’s one home and one test laptop, so your numbers will differ, but the pattern is what matters: the far rooms are where a single unit struggles.

What should I try before buying mesh?

These cost nothing or very little, and any of them can fix a problem that looks like a coverage problem. Our guide to finding and fixing Wi-Fi dead zones shows how to map weak rooms first.

1. Move the router. The FCC recommends a central location. Get it out of cabinets and away from large metal objects and thick walls.
2. Check the band. The FCC notes that 2.4 GHz is shared with many household devices, while the 5 GHz band is faster and may be less crowded by neighbors’ networks.
3. Wire what stays put. The FCC says a direct Ethernet connection between your router and a device gives the highest speeds and avoids Wi-Fi congestion. A TV, console or desktop doesn’t need Wi-Fi.
4. Update the router. Apple recommends setting routers to install firmware updates automatically.
5. Look at the router itself. If it’s an older combination modem-router from your internet provider, a newer router may help, but check with your provider about how to set it up.

If those don’t help, then compare options.

Router, extender or mesh: how do they compare?

On cost, Tom’s Guide says mesh systems range from about $80 to $1,000 or more, and individual extra units often sell for $100 to $200. You can also start with two units and add a third later.

Does the FCC router rule change this decision?

Not the router-versus-mesh question. It does affect which brands can launch new models this year: as of mid-September 2026, eero, Netgear and ASUS held FCC conditional approvals while TP-Link did not, and models already authorized can still be sold. We cover that in our large-house guides.

What this means for you

Picture a 900 sq ft two-bedroom apartment with the router on a bookshelf near the front door. Move it to the middle of the apartment before doing anything else. A single router is almost certainly enough.

Now picture a 2,400 sq ft two-story house with the router downstairs and a bedroom upstairs that gets one bar. That’s the classic mesh case, though a single node halfway up the stairs may be all you need.

And a 4,000 sq ft brick ranch with the router at one end is a mesh case even though it’s one floor, because the walls and distance both work against you.

Bottom line

Test first, try the free fixes, and buy mesh only if the far rooms still struggle. If you do, two units are a reasonable start, and an Ethernet cable between them is the best upgrade you can give the system.

Short answer: The best mesh system for a large house depends less on the Wi-Fi generation than on whether you can run Ethernet between units. With wiring, even a budget system performs well; without it, choose a tri-band system with a strong wireless link.

The best mesh system for a large house depends less on the Wi-Fi generation than on whether you can run Ethernet cable between the units. With wiring, even a budget system can perform well; without it, you need a tri-band system with a strong wireless link between units. Distance tests also show that rankings flip as you move away from the router, so a system that wins at 15 feet can lose at 90.

This guide is for people with a big or multi-story house who already know a single router isn’t enough. If you’re not sure, start with whether you need a router or mesh at all.

WiFi Weekly has not physically tested the products below. Performance figures come from the named independent reviewers, and specifications come from manufacturers.

What matters most when choosing mesh for a big house?

Four things, in this order.

Backhaul. This is the connection between mesh units. If you can connect units with Ethernet, the system doesn’t need to spend radio capacity relaying your traffic. If you can’t, the quality of the wireless link becomes the deciding factor.

Reach at the far end. In a large house, the number that matters is how a unit performs in the room farthest from it, not how fast it is beside the router.

Ports. A 2.5 Gbps or faster port lets a wired backhaul and a fast internet plan use their full speed.

Costs after purchase. Some brands put advanced security features behind subscriptions. Tom’s Guide notes that the Orbi 870 includes only 90 days of Netgear’s Armor security and technical support.

How far does each mesh system actually reach?

Tom’s Guide tests mesh systems in a multi-story brick-walled home with Keysight IxChariot, measuring download speed at 15, 50, 75 and 90 feet. Its September 7, 2026 roundup gives these results:

Source: Tom’s Guide, updated Sept. 7, 2026. One home, one test laptop; your results will differ. The Deco BE85 was tested early in its life, and Tom’s Guide notes firmware updates may have improved it.

Three things stand out.

First, the 15-foot column barely separates these systems, and it’s the number that matters least in a big house. Nobody’s phone sits next to the router all day.

Second, the ranking flips with distance. The eero Pro 7 was fastest at 50 feet and slowest at 90. The cheap dual-band Deco BE23 was the fastest at 75 and 90 feet. The Orbi 870 held about 628 Mbps from 50 to 75 feet, which is why Tom’s Guide picked it as its range pick.

Third, a big house is really a placement problem. Most systems here delivered several hundred megabits at 50 feet and fell off sharply after 75. The goal is to place units so no room is much farther than that from a unit.

Wired or wireless backhaul: which matters more?

Wired, and it isn’t close. A cable between units gives each one a dedicated path to the router, so the far end of the house isn’t competing with your phone for airtime. Our backhaul guide covers how to cable each brand.

If your house already has Ethernet jacks in the walls, use them. If it doesn’t, coax outlets may offer another route: MoCA adapters carry Ethernet over the coax cable already in many U.S. homes. Check whether your cable provider’s TV equipment already uses that coax before adding adapters.

If you can’t wire anything, shop for a tri-band system, and treat range and wireless-backhaul reviews as the key evidence. Two cautions from independent reviewers:

• Dong Knows Tech found the Orbi 770 is tri-band without a permanently dedicated backhaul band, which he considered adequate given how Wi-Fi 7 manages traffic across bands.
• Dong Knows Tech reported that the ASUS ZenWiFi BT10 struggled with stable wireless backhaul in its early 2024 firmware, and the wired setup performed well.

Which mesh system fits which large house?

There’s no single best pick, so here they are by situation.

You can run Ethernet and want to spend less: TP-Link Deco BE23

Tom’s Guide calls the Deco BE23 the best budget pick, and its 75- and 90-foot numbers above beat several far pricier systems. It’s dual-band, so it has no 6 GHz radio, and each unit has two 2.5 Gbps ports. Tom’s Guide says a three-pack can cost as low as $180.

Skip it if you need wireless backhaul in a house with thick walls, since a dual-band system shares one band between backhaul and your devices. Also see the FCC note below.

You can’t run cable and want strong range: Netgear Orbi 870 or Orbi 770

Tom’s Guide picks the Orbi 870 for range and praises its mid- and long-distance speeds, along with a 10 Gbps input and four 2.5 Gbps LAN ports. The catch is price: $1,000 for a two-pack.

The Orbi 770 is Netgear’s lower-cost Wi-Fi 7 tri-band. Netgear says a three-pack covers up to 8,000 sq ft, each satellite adds up to 2,750 sq ft, and each unit has 2.5 Gbps Ethernet that can serve as wired backhaul. In Tom’s Guide’s 2024 review, it had a 95-foot range and came close to covering a 3,500 sq ft home.

Skip it if you need 10 Gbps ports (the Orbi 770 has none) or you’re unwilling to pay for Netgear’s optional security subscription after the trial period. Coverage claims are lab maximums; Netgear itself says building construction lowers them.

You want the simplest setup: eero Pro 7

Tom’s Guide picked the Pro 7 for simplicity and praised its two 5 Gbps ports and strong mid-range speeds. Its 20.8 Mbps result at 90 feet is the reason to buy a three-pack and space units closer together rather than stretching two units across a big house. The eero Plus subscription, reported at $99.99 a year in 2025, is optional but gates advanced features. Confirm the current price on eero.com.

Skip it if you want deep settings control or more than two Ethernet ports per unit.

You have multi-gig internet and wired gear: ASUS ZenWiFi BT10

ASUS lists it as a tri-band Wi-Fi 7 system with dual 10 Gbps ports on each unit. HighSpeedInternet.com found its security tools and parental controls don’t need a subscription. Tom’s Hardware called it fast on multi-gig connections but pricey. ASUS’s AiMesh software also lets you add compatible ASUS routers to the same mesh.

Skip it if you want a minimal, app-only experience, or if you’re relying on wireless backhaul.

Other systems Tom’s Guide tested

Tom’s Guide’s top overall pick is the MSI Roamii BE Pro, which it sells only in two-packs (so adding a third node means buying another two-pack). The Acer Predator Connect T7 targets gamers and costs about $330 per unit with no multi-pack discount, according to Tom’s Guide. We could not confirm the FCC status for either brand, so check before buying.

How many nodes do I need, and where do they go?

Tom’s Guide’s rule of thumb: a two-pack suits a small or medium house, and a three-pack suits homes with more than three bedrooms or several floors. You can start with two and add one later.

Say your router is in a downstairs office at the front and the main bedroom upstairs at the back gets one bar. Don’t put the second unit in the bedroom. It needs a strong signal from the first unit to pass anything on. Put it about halfway, like an upstairs hallway near the stairs, so it has a good link back and still reaches the bedroom.

Some rules of thumb:

• Keep each unit in the open and off the floor, not in a cabinet or behind a TV.
• Add nodes to fix a dead spot, not to fill every room. Nodes crowded together don’t help.
• If a dead spot remains after moving nodes, try wiring that unit before buying a bigger system.

How does the FCC router rule affect this purchase?

On March 23, 2026 the FCC added consumer routers produced in foreign countries to its Covered List, which blocks new models from receiving FCC authorization. Models already authorized can still be sold, and routers you own are unaffected. The FCC also moved the software-update cutoff for covered routers to January 1, 2029, according to CEPRO.

Companies can request Conditional Approvals. Netgear and eero were approved in April 2026, and ASUS in early September, based on press reports. TP-Link had not been approved as of mid-September reporting. For this guide, that means the Deco BE23 and BE85 remain legal to buy and use, but TP-Link cannot introduce new models until it gets approval. Check the FCC’s list before buying. Our large-house router guide covers this in more detail.

When is mesh the wrong answer?

If your home is under about 2,500 square feet, one story and open, one good router placed near the center often does the job. If Wi-Fi is slow everywhere, including right next to the router, the problem may be your internet plan, modem or ISP, and mesh won’t fix it. Test with a wired connection before spending anything.

Bottom line

For a large house, decide about wiring first. If you can run Ethernet, a budget system like the Deco BE23 performed well in Tom’s Guide’s distance tests. If you can’t, a tri-band system such as the Orbi 770 or 870 is the safer choice. If you have multi-gig internet and wired gear, the ASUS ZenWiFi BT10’s dual 10 Gbps ports make sense. Choose eero Pro 7 for simple setup, but buy three units rather than two for a big house. Check the FCC’s approval list on the day you buy.

Short answer: For most large homes, a 2-3 unit mesh system beats one big router, because a single box can't fix signal lost to distance, floors and walls. New FCC rules change which brands are on shelves, but routers you already own are not banned.

For most large U.S. homes, the best Wi-Fi router is really a mesh system: two or three matching units spread around the house instead of one powerful box in a corner. Independent testing site RTINGS ranks the TP-Link Deco 7 Pro BE63 first for large homes, but a 2026 FCC rule means TP-Link, unlike eero, Netgear and ASUS, did not have approval to sell new models as of mid-September reporting.

That regulatory wrinkle is new this year and most “best router” lists haven’t caught up with it. Below: how to decide between a router and mesh, what to look for, which systems fit which houses, and where to put them.

WiFi Weekly has not physically tested the products below. Performance statements come from the named independent reviewers; specifications come from manufacturers and are labeled as such.

Do I need a single router or a mesh system for a large house?

A single router is one transmitter. Wi-Fi signal drops with distance and with every floor, wall and appliance it passes through, so a router in the downstairs living room can be fast next to the couch and weak in an upstairs bedroom no matter how expensive it is.

Mesh systems fix that by placing several units around the house. Your phone connects to whichever is closest, and the units pass traffic to each other. Netgear’s own guidance notes that concrete walls, large footprints and multiple floors all hurt performance, and it recommends mesh for those homes.

A single router can still be enough in a one-story, open layout where you can put it near the middle of the house. TP-Link, for example, rates a single Deco BE63 at 2,500 square feet.

Treat every “covers up to X square feet” figure as a manufacturer claim made under favorable conditions. Netgear’s own fine print says real coverage is reduced by building construction and interference.

What matters when choosing for a big house?

Five things separate a good large-home system from a poor one.

Backhaul. This is how the units talk to each other. Tri-band systems can dedicate a band to this job. Dual-band systems share their 5 GHz band between your devices and the link between units, which is the compromise in cheaper models. The best backhaul is an Ethernet cable between units, if your house has or can get one.

Ports. If you plan to wire units together or have a fast fiber or cable plan, 2.5 Gbps or faster ports keep the wiring from becoming the bottleneck.

Software and accounts. Some systems can only be managed through a phone app tied to a company account. That’s fine for most people, but you should know it before you buy.

Ongoing costs. Some brands hold advanced features, like ad blocking and content filtering, behind an optional subscription.

Update support. A router you keep for five years needs security updates. This is now a regulatory question too, covered below.

Wi-Fi generation is on this list only at the bottom. If a Wi-Fi 6E system with better placement and wired backhaul costs less than a Wi-Fi 7 system, it may serve a large house better.

Which mesh systems make sense for a large house?

Prices are not listed in the table because they moved often this year and we did not verify current street prices on the publication date. See each manufacturer’s U.S. page. Launch list prices were roughly $299.99 for one Deco BE63 and $299.99 for one eero Pro 7, according to TechRadar.

The independent-testing favorite: TP-Link Deco 7 Pro BE63

RTINGS names the BE63 its best pick for large homes and praises the small, easy-to-place design. TechRadar also named it its top mesh pick this year. Tom’s Guide found the system’s throughput strong for the price but noted it had trouble keeping up at longer distances, and the reviewer measured a range of about 100 feet.

Two details from TP-Link matter. The system’s headline speed of roughly 9.5 Gbps requires Wi-Fi 7 devices that support Multi-Link Operation and 6 GHz, which most phones and laptops sold today don’t. And the system is managed only through TP-Link’s Deco app with a TP-Link account, according to Tom’s Hardware.

The model was renamed “Deco 7 Pro BE63” in early 2026, per Dong Knows Tech, so you may see both names.

Skip it if you object to TP-Link’s app-and-account requirement, or if you’re uneasy about buying from a brand whose U.S. regulatory status is unresolved. (Owning one remains legal and supported; see below.)

The simplest setup with room to grow: eero Pro 7 and eero Max 7

Both are tri-band Wi-Fi 7 systems from Amazon. The Pro 7 has two 5 Gbps ports, which suits a 2 Gbps to 5 Gbps internet plan. The Max 7 adds two 10 Gbps ports and is built for very fast plans, lots of wired gear or homes where you’ll cable several units together.

eero’s basic system works without a subscription, but advanced features sit behind eero Plus, which was reported at $99.99 a year in 2025. Confirm the current price before you count on it.

Skip it if you don’t want your network managed from an Amazon-run app, or if you don’t need multi-gig ports and can buy less hardware.

The budget option: Netgear Orbi 370 series

This is Netgear’s most affordable Wi-Fi 7 Orbi. Dong Knows Tech points out that it is the first dual-band Wi-Fi 7 Orbi, with no 6 GHz band. Digital Reviews Network notes that it relies on shared 5 GHz backhaul, with the option of 2.5 GbE wired backhaul.

Reviewers describe it as a capable system for homes that have outgrown one router. Buyer reports on retail sites mention weaker satellites in dense, interference-heavy areas, though that is anecdotal.

Skip it if you live in a crowded apartment building and can’t wire the units together, or if you own several Wi-Fi 7 devices and want 6 GHz.

Other options worth checking

ASUS received a conditional approval covering its full router lineup in early September 2026, according to Tom’s Hardware, and its ZenWiFi mesh line is included. RTINGS lists the ZenWiFi BT10 and ET9 among its reviewed models. We did not verify current specifications or pricing for those, so check ASUS’s U.S. site and RTINGS before choosing one.

How does the FCC router ban affect what I buy?

On March 23, 2026, the FCC added consumer-grade routers produced in foreign countries to its Covered List, which bars new models from getting FCC authorization. The FCC says this does not affect routers people already own, and does not stop retailers from selling models authorized before that date.

Companies can apply for an exemption called a Conditional Approval from the Department of War or Department of Homeland Security. Netgear and eero were approved in April 2026, and ASUS followed in September. TP-Link had not been approved as of the reporting we reviewed, and says it is a U.S.-headquartered company.

On firmware, the FCC’s engineering bureau issued a waiver on May 8, 2026, moving the cutoff for software updates on covered routers from March 1, 2027 to January 1, 2029, according to CEPRO’s report.

What this means in practice:

• If you own a TP-Link router, you don’t have to replace it.
• Existing TP-Link models can still be sold, but new ones can’t be introduced until TP-Link gets an approval. Stock of older models may thin out over time.
• Conditional approvals run up to 18 months, so they will need to be renewed.
• If security-update support over the next five years is your top concern, an approved brand carries less regulatory uncertainty. That’s a risk judgment, not a finding that any brand’s hardware is unsafe.

Where should I put the units in a large house?

Placement often matters more than the model.

Picture a two-story house with the router downstairs at the front and a bedroom upstairs at the back that gets one bar. The instinct is to put the second unit in that bedroom. That usually backfires, because the unit needs a strong link to the main router to pass on. Put it roughly halfway, such as an upstairs hallway near the stairs, where it still gets a good signal from the first unit and can reach the bedroom.

A few rules of thumb follow from that:

• Put units in open areas, off the floor, not inside cabinets or behind a TV.
• Avoid placing a unit right next to a big metal object or a thick masonry wall.
• If you can run Ethernet between units, do it. A wired link removes the wireless hop and is the most reliable upgrade for big or older houses. If your house has coax outlets, MoCA adapters can carry Ethernet-class links over them, though that is outside what we compared here.
• Don’t buy more units than you need. Extra nodes placed too close together don’t help.

What this means for you

If your house is one story and open, try a single router in the center first. If it has two or more floors, thick walls, or an odd shape, start with a two-unit mesh system and add a third only if a dead spot remains.

If you have fast fiber or cable of 2 Gbps or more, or plan to wire your house, prioritize 2.5 Gbps-plus ports and wired backhaul over the Wi-Fi generation. If you have a modest plan, a cheaper system with the units placed well will feel the same.

And if you already have a mesh system that reaches everywhere, replacing it for the Wi-Fi 7 label alone is unlikely to change your day-to-day experience.

Bottom line

For a large house, buy for coverage first: a mesh system, positioned well and wired if possible. On independent testing, the TP-Link Deco 7 Pro BE63 leads RTINGS’ large-home list, but eero, Netgear Orbi and ASUS are the brands with FCC conditional approvals for new models as of September 2026. Check the FCC’s Conditional Approvals list before you buy, since it has been changing.

Short answer: Most router attacks succeed because of weak admin passwords, old firmware, or services you never use. Change the admin password, turn on automatic updates, use WPA3 or WPA2 with AES, and put smart-home gear on a guest network. A VPN protects traffic on your device but does not secure your router.

Your router is the front door to your home network. These ten changes take about 15 minutes, and they are in order of importance. Settings names vary by brand, so look for the closest match in your router’s app or admin page.

The checklist

1. Change the router admin password. This is separate from your WiFi password. Use a long, unique password and store it in a password manager.
2. Install updates and turn on automatic updates. Firmware updates fix security problems. If your router no longer receives updates, replace it. See how to check whether your router still gets updates.
3. Use WPA3, or WPA2 with AES. Avoid the older WEP and WPA settings, and avoid “TKIP.” If a device can’t connect on WPA3, a mixed WPA2/WPA3 mode is a reasonable compromise. Our WPA2 vs. WPA3 guide explains the difference.
4. Set a long WiFi password. A passphrase of several random words is easy to type and hard to guess.
5. Turn off WPS. The push-button and PIN setup feature is convenient and a known weak spot. See whether to turn off WPS and UPnP.
6. Turn off remote management. Unless you deliberately use it, you don’t need to reach your router’s admin page from the internet.
7. Use a guest network for visitors and smart-home gear. This keeps cameras, plugs, and TVs away from the laptops and phones that hold your private data. See whether smart home devices belong on a guest network.
8. Review connected devices. Remove anything you don’t recognize and change your WiFi password if something looks wrong. See how to see who’s connected to your Wi-Fi.
9. Check for risky services you don’t use. UPnP, port forwarding, and remote file sharing should be off unless you need them.
10. Consider DNS filtering. Many routers let you choose a DNS service that blocks known malicious sites. See how to change your router’s DNS.

What does a VPN do?

A VPN encrypts your connection from your device to the VPN provider, which is useful on public WiFi. It doesn’t secure your router, and it won’t protect you from a weak admin password. Treat it as an extra, not a replacement for the checklist.

What about smart-home devices?

Put them on a guest network and keep their apps updated. Our guide to Matter and Thread explains how smart-home devices connect to your network.

When is it time to replace the router?

Replace your router when the maker stops releasing security updates, or if it can’t use WPA3 and you have devices that do. If you’re shopping, our guide to picking a router for a large house has current picks and notes on FCC rules.